Hiya folks, I’m back with yet another fairy tale of mine. This time it’s from my beloved Meemure, where I can’t seem to get enough of. Going back to Meemure was a very sudden plan coz while we were touring Kohonawala on 08-09 Mar; we came across Viyan Gala, another uniquely pointed shape mountain. She reminded me of Lakegala and I kept thinking about her right throughout the journey. At the end, while we were laboring up the hill towards Urumeethenna crossing the Loggal Oya, I made a vow to go see her ASAP.

Our initial plan to visit Meemure on 15-16 March got cancelled as Hasitha became terribly sick at the eleventh hour leaving us no time for a plan B. I couldn’t bear the thought of not seeing Lakegala and suggested Atha to go there on 29-30 March. He shared my views on not wasting our precious time on useless elections and doing something worthwhile. We both were determined to do this by all means. Most of the guys I invited had something or other and in the end and not surprisingly it was down to him and me.

Tour Highlights:

1. Dandenikumbura
2. Gala Muduna
3. Kahatagahawela Falls
4. Iththa Gala
5. Wannimana
6. Camping

Day 01

We left Colombo early around 1.30am and reached Hunnasgiriya around 5.00am having used most of the isolated roads to our advantage making good time. We both were ravenous but most of the shops had nothing but left overs of the previous night so had to settle for some coffee in the end. I called Nava Mama waking him up to inform that we were in Hunnasgiriya. The sky towards Ududumbara was being painted vividly with bright orange, red, crimson, yellow and blue. It’s one of the many types of scenery that one will never get fed up. Sunrise and Sunset are always, no matter from where, mind blowing and I cherish every second of it.

We drove along Meemure road while the morning sun was trying to penetrate the woods. It was a pleasure to be away from the concrete jungle and breathe in some fresh mountain air. They’re widening the road by cutting at the sides. The road is in bad shape due to this and most of the road is full of pot holes and ledges. Hopefully this will be finished fairly soon. It’s about 15km from Hunnasgiriya to Loolwatte and further 17-18km to Meemure. The road after Loolwatte is in fairly good shape except a couple of bad patches where the tarred pieces had been removed by the passing waterways.

We stopped to take a few pics of the morning sky painted with gorgeous colors. The shadows of trees added to the beauty with the contours of the mountains in the distance. I wouldn’t have minded walking along this road at this time as it felt heavenly. However, time was a luxury we couldn’t afford at the time as we had planned something unprecedented even in Nava Mama’s standards. KCC at Deanston was still in darkness and no sign of activity there. It’d’ve been grand if we could be at the mini world’s end when the sun is rising. We could’ve got a super panoramic view towards Ududumbara, Hasalaka and Mahiyanganaya. I had to restrain myself so hard not to venture into the trail without this early and there was no way to get permission.

Passing Loolwatte tea shop made me crave for yet another coffee but we simply wanted to get to Meemure as soon as we could and start on our first hike. We stopped nonetheless at Corbet’s Gap for a few pics of the mountains which were rising majestically to a clear blue sky. From then on, it was a downhill journey along a circular road that entwines the mountains like a giant snake. It’d already gone by 6.30am and we hurried. There were a few places where the road was terrible but we had a somewhat higher ground clearance enabling us to pass without incident. Reaching Kaikawala concrete bridge, we saw a monk who’s going collecting his meals (Pindawatha Wadinawa). He simply stepped out of the road, without even looking back and kept looking downwards till we passed.

There are a few monks who stay meditating in this part of SL as it’s so beautiful and calm. We even came across one such place deep inside the jungle on our way back from Gala Muduna later in the day. Closer to Nava mama’s house, we got the first glimpse of the gorgeous Lakegala. Whoa, what a beauty she is despite being continuously harassed by unforgiving sunlight and intermittent rains.

Finally, we reached Nava mama’s house around 7.00am and he welcomed us very warmly. His wife was already making tea for us. He sure was glad to see us and everything was the same as we’d left before. However, he’s built couple of extra washrooms and added some parking space for vehicles. This is good news for the travelers. Dinky, the faithful doggy of Nava mama is still there barking at any strangers.

I felt so much like coming home coz Meemure is that close to my heart. We devoured on the delicious breakfast and got ready to hit the road. Around 8.30am we left for yet another unforgettable and long hike in my life. We reached the symbolic Mee Tree and walked further towards the Historic Bo Tree where the road technically ends. Lakegala was smiling with us all the way, pleased to see me back. If only she could talk. We walked pass the Mee tree towards the Bo tree and took the path through the lush green paddy fields. I know I’ve said it before but I can’t say enough about the beauty of these young paddy fields. They are so grand looking, especially when the background is bordered with dark green mountains and the sky is royal blue.

At the end of the paddy field is where the new camp site is located. Right next to that is the river (Bembigolla Oya aka Meemure Oya), so no problem with water. I’ll come to the more specifics of the campsite later. We walked passing it and joined yet another pathway bordering even more beautiful paddy fields. It’s such a soothing color for your eyes. Lakegala was with us all the way looking grandeur than ever. This road took us to the Suriya Arana Falls which I’d been there before. To our dismay, we found two tents erected on the rocks near the falls but nobody was about.

I’m not sure if it was legal to camp there even Nava mama wasn’t sure. There’s a lot of activity going on these days with Forest Officers frequently visiting to check if there are any illegal things happening. That’s why now we have to buy tickets if we venture into the jungle. It’s something imposed very recently but not 100% applied. It’s always best to buy tickets to be on the safe side than be sorry. We walked pass the Suriya Arana falls through the jungle footpath towards Dandenikumbura. After about 1km, there was a group of people (6 boys and 2 girls) following us and found they were the ones in the tents. They’d just started following us and had no idea where they were going. Fortunately, when we stopped to refill our canteen, they caught up with us and got into conversation.

It was very careless of them as they had no idea where the path is leading, if the path is safe. No villager was with them. There are Elephants roaming Dandenikumbura and surrounding area so what they were doing was very risky too. You should never venture into unknown territories like these no matter how good a hiker you are without someone who knows the area well. They then decided to follow us as far as Dandenikumbura and then turn around. There’s one lone house still standing in Dandenikumbura that belongs to a great grandfather of Nava mama. It’s well built with cement and bricks with roofing tiles. Around late 1980s, the village had been abandoned and what’s left of the population had migrated to nearby villagers.

The group of people bid us farewell and Nava mama sat under the shade of hundreds of years old Bo tree to tell us the story of Dandenikumbura. I’ve shot a short video which you can see below but let me put it in brief here.

“The Story of Dandenikumbura”

“Dandenikumbura name had come from Dan-Dun-Kumbura (The paddy field where alms were given). The history of this paddy field runs all the way towards A’Pura era and Dandenikumbura is in the path where ancient kings used to come to Kandy from A’Pura and Pollonnaruwa. According to the folklore and history, this is where Maliyadewa Maha Rahathan Wahanse stayed and this paddy field was harvested to give alms to him. As a result, the village had got its name.”

The Video Documentary of Dandenikumbura

The paddy field is now just a bare land with grass and bushes taken full control. This is where the jumbos roam around. We saw plenty of aricanut and coconut trees telling us that there were people living in this area before. After a short walk, we reached the shallow waters of Heen Ganga. Due to the draught that hit the country recently, water levels were very low but still had to wade through about 30m knee-deep water.

Atha offered to take me “Assa Gudun” and I happily agreed coz I’m so lazy and reluctant to remove my shoes and wade through. Nava mama too wanted have some fun and hoping we would fall, he started videoing our crossing. Atha nearly obliged when he lost footing but I held him tight dearly coz I had my camera inside the pocket. However, he couldn’t save his power bank as he went a bit deeper than his knees and water seeped into his left pocket drenching the power bank and making it redundant.

Crossing the Heen Ganga

Save for that, we crossed without further incident and started the strenuous hike through dense forest towards Gala Muduna. The foot path is wider at many places marking that it’s being used by buffaloes and jumbos alike. We came across two huts (one as soon as we crossed the river) where villagers bring alms to the meditating monk in the jungle near a very tall waterfall. I’m not sure if it’s documented but we couldn’t get to the base as the monk had put up a sign asking the visitors not to enter and disturb his meditation and we duly obliged.

We kept climbing and thanks to the tree canopy, the sun couldn’t bother us but it was very tough going uphill and we had to come back to the village too before it’s dark. We took the torches with us but couldn’t risk walking through that thick jungle in the night amid animals and serpents. After it seemed an eternity we reached the village and got a differently shaped Lakegala looking at us from the distance. Next to her was the highest point in Knuckles, Thunnisgala aka Gombaniya. I’d not heard Gombaniya was also called Thunnisgala so this was news to me.

Unfortunately there had been a funeral in one of the houses so the people were in a rather somber not in their usual cheerful and talkative mood. A 7-year old boy had died having been hospitalized for more than 4 months. It had taken them so long to diagnose a lump in his head and by the time they came to know, the things had gone a little too far. The father of the kid however came and spoke to us even offering us lunch but we’d our packed lunch with us so politely declined.

We met this very old (he claims 84 years but could be older) Muththa (Grandfather) who was very cheerful and talkative. He offered to give us some details about the village and even had a plea for some help to the village. You can see the talk we had below.

Plea from Gala Muduna People

“Gala Muduna Village”

“This reminded me of Kohonawala not because it’s in a ravine but pretty much isolated from the rest of the world. There’s no road to the village and to get to a motorable road they have to walk more than 4-5km. A decent town is about 11km away. They don’t even wanna think about coming towards Meemure coz that’s very strenuous. There are 30+ families living in the village and has a temple and a school with about 20-25 kids.

There’s no main income for them but they’re by and large farmers. They grow paddy, vegetables and tobacco but only for their consumption. They simply don’t have any way of taking their harvest to a town or nobody is coming to buy it as there’s no proper road to the village like Meemure. We saw the poverty-stricken houses scattered about. Most of the houses had only 1 or 2 people living in them and in dilapidated status. Even that very old Muththa is living on his own.

They have a hydro power plant but not a very powerful one. Only 2 bulbs can be lit at any time with that power nothing else. It’s not powerful enough to run the electrical stuff like cookers, fridges, etc. So if someone can donate a generator for their society club, it’d be very useful for the events such as funerals, weddings, etc. Anyone interested in donating something to this village, please contact Nava Mama and he’ll facilitate it.”

The view of Lakegala from Gala Muduna is completely different from what you see from Meemure. She looks more boxy than pointy and the broken part (Ressa) is partially visible from there. Muththa offered to say some poems but refused to do so at the funeral house claiming it’s not clean. So we decided to go to his house and he started off with a poem about King Ravana and I was impatiently waiting till he finished the set of poems to dig further into the history of Ravana.

Muththa signing us Poems from the Past

To my disappointment, he evaded numerous efforts from me to get something useful out of him. It’s the nature of these people coz they’re treating Ravana as a god calling him various names, “Gale Bandara Deviyo” being one of them. I didn’t push too far and we bid our farewell to this beautiful village and started our descent back towards Meemure. Nava mama took us in a different route where we got a view of the top of the waterfall which I named Kahatagahawela Ella (if this is not already documented) coz it’s located close to that village on the other side of the Heen Ganga. This is when we came across the notice printed and laminated put up by the monk asking not to tress pass into his meditation.

Video of Kahatagahawela Falls through the Tree Canopy

He’d specifically asked us to be at one of those huts in the morning should we wanna talk to him. We bypassed the place and reached the Heen Ganga and crossed it. There was this dog who followed us all the way from Gala Muduna and we were hoping she’d turn around at the river instead she swam across the river and joined us all the way back home.

We passed a few abandoned paddy fields at Kahatagahawela coz it’d been abandoned by the villagers just like Dandenikumbura. We were knackered but kept going, fortunately there was packet of Lemon Puff and we had it but the doggy claimed most of it. Nava mama said that it was the first time anyone had come in the morning to Meemure, gone and come back from Gala Muduna so we felt proud of ourselves of being able to do that and coming from someone like him made it all the more special. On our way back, we plucked some Madu Dalu from a tree hoping to have it cooked the following day for our lunch. I’d never had Madu Dalu curry before so was looking forward to yet another first-time experience. We came back to the Bo tree in Meemure where Nava mama’s son was waiting with the tuk-tuk coz it’s about 1.5km-walk back to his house and it’d have been terrible had we had to walk.

We reached back home knackered but feeling overjoyed inside. There was another group of 14 university students (at least that’s what they’d claimed) preparing to go for a mega booze. It was all chaos coz they were preparing this and that and we had to sit and wait till they left finally around 8.30pm for their drinking session. Nava mama had to find a quiet spot for them to go and drink and sing but asked them to finish everything before midnight. Why or why waste your time drinking at a place like this when there’s so much to see.

Unbelievable

This is something I can’t seem to get enough of ever

Just appearing

Loads of different shapes

The winding road downhill from Corbet’s Gap

Mountains towards Meemure

Morning sun lighting up the mountain tops

Our reliable transport mode

This is called Tun Tun, similar to Passion Fruit and can cook

Home grown and fully organic

They don’t escape me that easily

There she’s, beautiful as ever

Lush greenery, charcoal grey and royal blue…

The team ready to rock ‘n’ roll

Searching for food

Being floughed

Towards Kalupahana area, we went about halfway straight and took a sharp right turn

Busy at work in the scorching hot sun

Entrance to the camping site

Art of creepers

Hondapara (larger version of Godapara)

No words to express this beauty

Me and my beloved Lakegala

Everywhere is this green

We didn’t miss Tony

First encounter

They all are working so hard

No exception just because you’re old and a female

Would be a wonderful place to stay overnight

If you read my first report on Meemure, this Grandfather should be familiar

Famous place in the Suriya Arana movie

Balu Dan blooming some great flowers

Entering into the jungle of Dandenikumbura

Atha and Nava mama

This is called “Iththa” and used to bait fish by crushing and putting them in water. The fish get drunk and easy to catch afterwards

See the fence created by villagers to keep the bulls away when the farming season is over

Thick forest cover kept us from the unforgiving sun

Meemure Oya which makes Suriya Arana Falls, flowing downhill

“Hal Bambiya” – The fruit tastes sweet and sour whole the leaves are used as a medicine for Stomachache

The well built but lone house in Dandenikumbura which once belonged to a great grandfather of Nava mama

Ancient Bo tree

Heen Ganga very shallow due to lack of rains

Good for a cool dip but where’s the time?

Knee deep

Guess what? Lakegala looking a bit out of shape

First hut near the Heen ganga where the meditating monk comes in the morning for alms

Mammoth trees soaring into the sky searching for sun

Couple having a break

The path is shared equally by villagers, bulls and elephants at different times

The second hut

Came to the lower part of Gala Muduna, this paddy field has been abandoned

Getting ready for harvest

Harvested paddy field

Lakegala from another angle

“Samanalaya mala ha lamaya se”

Just look at this path, it’s like a trench as the waterways had washed it down over time

As if through a giant canal

The first house

To the left is Thunnisgala and right is my Lakegala

Very fruitful earth they have

These people were very friendly

Looks like plastic

Love the color

Tobacco being farmed for their consumption

Kurakkan being dried in the sun

This is called Thana Hal, a variety of rice

Derelict houses tell the story of poverty, both these houses have one person each living in them

The village is around this paddy field

Very old Muththa with Nava mama with his new camera

We and Muththa

Not posing for a toothpaste ad

Muththa’s house

Betel leaves and aricanut are main requirements for them

Where we had lunch

“Hurry up Nava mama, very hungry” – I kept saying

Some more beauties

Unique

Kahatagahawela Falls (if it’s not documented as yet) through the thick jungle

Couldn’t get to the base

The tree trunk being used as a bridge to cross to the other side but we didn’t as there was a notice

Look at the smiley face,

The lungs of our country, do protect them at all costs

Going was very tough

The waterfall seen from the Kahatagahawela Paddy field which is like many others now abandoned

Closer

Very little water, but closer to this should be ideal for the monk to concentrate on his meditation

Nava mama, Atha and the doggy crossing the river. She wouldn’t leave back

Swimming across

The other side of the paddy field, also abandoned

Towards Corbet’s Gap aka Aththala Mattuwa

Giving us a hard stare

The area we came from is to the left

Freshly plucked Madu Dalu

Mushy mushrooms

Giant cave dug probably by a Porcupine or Kebellewa

Gotchcha

Look at the centre part. It’s as if saying “Ayubowan”

Finished our lemon puff in seconds

Birds had come to feast on the insects

Very tiny but managed to get a macro

The Ayubowan rock is far away

Getting back towards the village

Well-built hut for resting during the day time

Thorny tree

Sun is disappearing below Lakegala

Gosh, what a day we had!

Day 02

Camping Site

• The camp site has 5 camp beds which can accommodate 10-15 people with ease and two well-maintained toilets, one with a commode and the other without.

 • The fire area has ample room for a group of 30-40 people to sit around comfortably.

 • Meemure Oya flows just off the campsite so no problem with water, especially when you wanna have a cool dip.

We finally packed our dinner and got the prepared chicken for our BBQ and went back in the tuk-tuk to Bo tree and walked the rest of the way to the campsite. Salinda (Nava mama’s younger son) and his friend had prepared the site beautifully having swept all the fallen leaves and lit flaming torches which added so much beauty to the dark night. There were two tents erected, one a larger 3-man tent and another camouflage 2-man one. I was so taken to the camouflage one coz it was ideal to use inside the jungle coz of its colors. It’d be very difficult for anyone or an animal to detect it unless they come right on top of it.

After a cool dip in the adjoining Oya, we got ready for the BBQ. Nava mama got busily into the act and it took a considerable time to get that ready. We didn’t use charcoal for the BBQ but wood fire and it came surprisingly well cooked and delicious. After a hearty meal of rice and curry we got ready to sleep in the luxuriously arranged tent. There were sleeping mattresses with pillows and sheets to cover and the atmosphere was nice and balmy.

We wrapped ourselves and went into dreamland. The constant sound of the water flowing and nightlife of the wild animals was a treat to our eyes. One would think it’s so disturbing but you gotta listen to that and see how soothing it really is. I slept like a baby till 5.45am and when I got up all the weariness had vanished into thin air and we were ready to rock and roll yet again.

“Note: It was very sad to see the alcohol (not the traditional toddy) had finally seeped into the life styles of Meemure people, especially the youth as a result of an outsider who’d started yet another camping site. He’s attracted young people by offering them free liquor. It won’t be long before we see the disastrous effects of this in this humble and beautiful village. For the first time in Meemure history, a wife had had to go to the police and lodge a complaint against her husband, who works at this new camp site, for drunken assault. It’s something that has never happened before and natives in Meemure prided themselves of not using alcohol except their good old toddy but things are taking a different route just like Malaysian Airliner MH370.

Therefore it’d be advisable for any traveler who goes to Meemure (or any other place) not to offer alcohol to the villagers. We wanna see the un spoilt beauty of our country and her people as they are without them being destroyed by addicting to alcohol and drugs. This is exactly what the English did to destroy our culture and distance the king from his people and unfortunately it continues to date. Coincidently, I told Nava mama in my very first visit that if ever an outsider comes to Meemure, he’d only think about making money at any cost not the cultural or historical value of this great heaven on earth. Sadly it’s exactly what that’s happening at the moment. It’s now down to us nature lovers to try and put a stop to these dangerous proceedings.”

I love this tent

Where we slept

The fire is going strong

Getting ready

There’s ample room to sit around the fire

It’s time to start cooking

Just got all the ashes on my lens

Ok, here we go. A new method is being tested

This is being kinda boiled by the heat generated underneath. Not directly exposed yet

One of the gigantic mango tress that provides shade

Now fully exposed to the fire and being charred nicely

Dinner anyone?

Would be ideal in the jungle

Good morning!

The central part of the camping site with the kitchen in the corner

Large enough for 3 people

Very comfortable

Nicely done washrooms, there are two

Remains of our BBQ

Scary

Meemure Oya flows making crystal clear pools every now and then

Irresistible

So many different varieties

She was back again at work early in the morning

Found him on the camping ground

Got him to climb onto this stick and see how scared he is

Holding onto dear life

The toddy tree inside

One of the villagers busy at work

Freshly tapped Toddy

I’m not sure if it’s here coz of some kinda superstition

Meemure to Wannimana Trail

After a good night’s sleep, we washed and roamed around the lush green paddy fields taking in the fresh air into our lungs, deeply inhaling the fragrance of the trees, flowers and the river. When we got back to the campsite, we saw a person on top of the toddy tree within the camp premises. He was tapping toddy and we waited for him to get down and have a chat.

He got down eventually with a container of freshly tapped toddy and we talked to him while Athula (hope you can remember him from our first encounter) brought us tea. After about half hour Nava mama came with our breakfast of Kiribath and Lunu Miris which was delicious like all other meals. He was furious with the group who stayed in his house coz they’d been drinking till 2.30am in the morning shouting and hooting keeping the whole neighborhood awake. As a result we got a bit late to start our journey. This is something we should never do, going and making the lives of those people uncomfortable just because we want to have a good time.

After that we started our journey and walked up to Bo tree with the toddy tapper and leaving our baggage at his place we walked towards Kalupahana through the jungle. We met one of the great grandfathers of Meemure, E.M.P.G. Ekanayake who’s nearly 90 years old. Would you believe that he’d climbed Lakegala when he was 83 years old? That shows how strong the people of Meemure are.

Our plan was to reach Wanniyamana, yet another flat land like Ressa with a deep ravine to the left of Lakegala. Nava mama kept telling us old stories of how he as a kid roamed the jungle at will with his parents and brothers and sisters. That’s how he knows the whole area like the back of his hand. Walking parallel to the River we entered the thick forest and started climbing up along a hardly ever used footpath. Nava mama said the hunters roam these areas as there are no forest officers let alone travelers, save for ones like us, so it’s a good opportunity for those who hunt animals like Barking Deer, Sambar Deer, Wild Boars and various others. We came across Aththikka trees and Nava mama informed us from that emerged the little insect called Konduruwa. The villagers call this tree Dimbul as well.

After a tiring climb, we reached Iththa Gala from where we could see the Daluggola Falls (I named it after the village) and the paddy field next to it. The water levels were low but not too bad. Straight ahead was the Thunnisgala, highest point in Knuckles Mountain Range soaring high into the sky. This was a very nice vantage point and we gave our battered legs a good 10-minute break. The doggy that had followed us from Gala Muduna had joined us for this as well and even she was panting heavily due to the nonstop hiking. She must be a well-trained dog coz not once she barked inside the jungle keeping very quiet.

From Iththagala we saw the top of Thunnisgala and just below the summit is Belumgala and further downhill to the right is Kudagala shaped like a bed. There was another pointed summit further to the right which is called Rehenaketu Pathana. Beyond this lie Walpolamulla, Laggala, Atanwala, Pitawala and Rathkinda. The famous Knuckles Doowili Falls are also placed beyond this point. We then came to a huge tree which Nava mama introduced as Gammalu. This is also called Blood tree coz if you cut the bark of this, there’s a liquid flowing very much like blood. Nava mama showed us and I was so surprised as it flowed just like blood does out of the skin and the cut made on the tree looked exactly like a wound on a human.

We had to hurry as we were planning to leave for Colombo the same day so pushed on through the jungle until; at last we reached the ultimate goal of Wanniyamana. This is yet another unheard and not often ventured place. It looked just like a Pathana on top but a lot smaller compared to many others in the country. We could see as far as Gala Muduna and the mountains beyond that towards Corbet’s Gap. My beloved Lakegala was just a touching distance away and a deep ravine about 500ft separated us. Thunnisgala, Bambaragala was behind us when facing Lakegala. Ressa too was clearly visible from this strategic location.

You can observe the shape of Lakegala from a side angle from here very clearly. She’s more or less separated into 3 parts, two big ones on both sides and a tiny pointed shape in the middle. Towards Ressa, the mountain looks flat and sloping. We couldn’t believe the distance we’d travelled during the past 36hrs or so. It was a photo shoot out all along and even the doggy was enjoying herself running here and there. We did a documentary from the top of Wanniyamana and you can see that below.

Documentary from Wanniyamana

After it felt like an eternity, we decided to climb down coz it was nearly 2.00pm. I was very sad to leave Lakegala behind but vowed to myself to come back to see her as soon as possible. Climbing down was less tedious and Nava mama told us that all of the forest there used to be Chena cultivation about 2-3 decades ago. There were rocky boundaries marked by the people who grew Corn, Kurakkan, Enasal, etc. those days.

After a long journey we reached the Lakegala Oya where there was a suspension bridge erected by the villagers to cross over during rainy season. Nava mama used that to show his balancing skills and I shot a short video too.

Nava Mama’s Stunts.

We reached the Village but couldn’t contact Nava mama’s house so that Salinda could come in the tuk tuk to take us home. We decided to walk the rest of the way but met an American who’d recently done a motor biking tour in India, now doing it in SL. He was very impressed to see our pics and asked about the village. Fortunately about halfway through, Salinda and Athula came in the tuk tuk to pick us and I’d never felt so glad to see a tuk tuk.

We reached home around 4.15pm and after a quick wash, Nava mama’s wife had cooked the Madu Dalu which was delicious. The lunch was a feast and we ate like a hungry pack of wolves. Nenda was however cross with Nava mam for bringing that doggy home coz Dinky was furious and waiting to pounce on her and chase her away. But Nava mama made fun of that saying it’s high time Dinky got a partner for him. We bid our farewell to our hosts and were on our way back around 5.15pm.

Having reached Hunnasgiriya around 7.00pm, it was all traffic-free till we reached Colombo close to 11.00pm.

It turned out to be another memorable journey for us, especially me as Meemure is very much close to my heart. I simply love going there again and again and looking at Lakegala all the time. I hope you enjoyed my fantasy tale as much as I did getting this across to you.

Take care and keep travelling but protect the Mother Nature at all costs.

On our way

Early risers

Just like a bouquet

Age is no barrier

Typical day-to-day life

Ekanayake Mama, who climbed Lakegala at 83

Aththikka aka Dimbul

Plenty of water sources with clean water

Life on the Dead

Atha tackling a fallen tree

Doggy kept following us all the way

Used to be Chena Cultivation

Looks very much like blood pouring out of a wound

Wrapped tightly around

Nava mama taking pics of Thunnisgala from Iththagala, Daluggolla falls is just in the middle of the pic next to the paddy field

Thunnisgala, Belumbala , Kudagala and Rehana Ketu Pathana

Daluggolla Falls and the Paddy Field

Sheer climb most of the way

Even Nava mama was exhausted

Wow

Out in the open, you see Andirigala to the extreme left and the base of it is Nava mama’s house

Only a little to go

Whoa! There She is

Busy at work

Mighty Lakegala

Portrait of her

Towards Gala Muduna (left) and the rest of the mountain range

Look at the sheer drop

There it is about 500-600ft

Have similar one like this taken from Ressa

Atha’s knee kept complaining, thus the bandage

Ravana Balakaya

Won’t get enough of looking at her

Getting down

Royal blue

Signs of big trees chopped and branches grown around the main trunk. Results of Chena Cultivation

The suspension bridge

Nava mama showing his balancing skills

“Anybody home?”

Back into familiar territory

Very nicely done

Some of the plots are yet to be planted

Towards Gala Muduna

Bean cultivation

She was sad to see us go

Back to Meemure Oya

Very little water

Time to go

Ekanayake mama still at work

Ambul Dodam

Very cute fella. He was crying when we went in but settled down to pose for the pic

Saying “Good Bye”

Million petals

Enjoy the Collection of Panos below:

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 15

“The time is passing 11.30 Next coming up the devil’s hour with the shrill sound of Cicadas & the hollow less darkness. The night mail train of Badulla from Colombo fort is starting by now with erasing that all noises. Our destination is Ohiya railway station with the intention of other new journey. Our aim is walk to kalupahana on the devils steps.”

Branch of short elbow bends across deep brae is called as “Devil’s Stairs” by English planters. Because of hardness & dangerous of the way and the shape of the stair this was named as “Devil’s Stairs”.
There is no any bus as transport & people fulfill their all facilities on walking to city. The nearest hospitals are Boralanda & Haputhale. Consider above facts we can decide the people who live there are very lonely & separate by the society with rural lives.Besides plucking tea, growing vegetable is an additional way of income in these people.

It was about 4.30am of done which got down Ohiya. It was very cool in the morning because of the dry weather condition of these days here. Baring that tough cold we reach to Mr Gaminie’s stores to get the breakfast to start hour journey. We swallowed very hot rotiis and left there looking for Udaveriya by Gaminie’s trishaw with having lunch also.

Another beautiful dawn

The way which we should walking

The top view of “ohiya waththa” estate

Heart stolen view of nature lovers…

It’s at about 6.00am when we start our journey from the name board of Udaveriya. First portion of this path is tar paved and it is fall across a serpentine forest. Then it came to open area. “Ohiya waththa” state can be seen ahead. Path is fall down across this state to down side. We reach to decayed tea factory across short cuts of tea state.

Mmmm… Do you want a fresh tea?

Ruins of the tea factory

What an amazing beauty…

Along the way…

Cool misty morning

Misty valley

Bonny view of land mark

Misty is not leave yet

Another angle of misty valley

Paradise of the photographer

Beauty of nature

We can see here a line of workers houses also. And also we can get the help of a small guide at there. Then orderly we passed Udaveriya tea factory, Bangloor & went forward and also we were not forgotten to chat the innocent tamil people in here which we met. It is break down the duties of Ohiya also Udaveriya factories because of the administration problems and the building also became as ruins. We went forward with passing other crop lands. The way was very tough & hard by then.

We went forward across tea states without any sign of human. Then we entered to “Lyburn” division of Udaveriya state.

A tiny cottage of estate people

Their Cemetery

Work happily

Prosperous crop land

Just click

Ruins of another tea factory

Name board

After passed another 2km’s we could see another line of workers houses. The children who lived there ran up to us because they don’t familiar with new comers. When we treated them which our foods they get a very happy with less of words. That’s the same also us. We start our journey with a new impression with neglecting the disturbance of tough sunlight.

The moment of leaving misty

Along the rough way

Their smiling eyes waiting for you…

The place which collect tea leaves

On the way to “Kalupahana” then we entered to “Kings lyburn” The board which mentioned the distance to “kalupahana” as 14 km was making us so tired.

If the time passes 10.00 am there was a tough sunlight because of the dry weather condition.

We went forward with feeling the beauty of surrounding. Then the way was entered little bit higher area. We entered the upper part of the way. After then we entered to western “Haputhale” division of the “Udaveriya” estate. From that the way was slope full.

The harsh way with painful legs

Smiling with forget their labored lives… (Don’t forget to chat in a moment with innocent people)

Enter to the “Kings Lynn”

We have more to go…

Great work – Click Image to Enlarge

You must go upper way

Welcome to West Haputhale

The way through the tea estate

It was not any repair of that road which sharp stones. Any other line of cottage was met for us and we didn’t forget to bring some sweets the small children in there also. We could see the upper part of “Lanka Ella” passing another 4 km.

Journey was very tough because the time was reaching 12’o’ clock. When we entered to devils steps which were passing the “V” cut we were very tired. We get a small rest to have the lunch and again started to continue our journey.

Their community hall

Another tiny cottage

Sharing with sympathy

Do you feel him?

Running in front of us

Feel the tasty of sweets

Is this innocent face hope only foods? (You must feel this close with them)

Their also other innocent children live in our country…

Go forward with severe sunlight and the hard way…

Group of tiny cottages

The view of “Lanka Ella”

The place of “V” cut

The way which seen down at the “V” cut. We should go this way ahead.

The main road of “Badulla- Colombo”

Then we could see the way which we should walk is looked like stairs. When we went forward we could see 1st scenery of “Bambarakanda” Ella.

And also we had met a sudden wild fire. It was destroyed a large amount of forest area by the fire devil because of the dry weather.

Sudden wild fire

It’s spread rapidly

We had not anything to do all is finished instant.

The first scene of the “Bambarakanda”

Blossomed wild beauty

Heads of crown shape Finas

We could reach to “Bambarakanda” fall at about 2pm & also we put off our all tired by felling the water fall.

From “Bambarakanda” to “Kalupahana” we hired a three wheel & from there we reach to “Kurunegala” across “Rathnapura” & “Kegalle”. And then the time was 11 pm. We reach to the destination adding with the beautiful memories to my travel life.

Blossomed wild beauty

Relieving her all weight from the top

She is the tallest mermaid in Srilanka

If it is lack of water but much of bonny…

Actually you may feel this experience with mountains, narrow slope, passing. And also don’t forget to bring some sweets for friends who the children live there. Because they always waiting for us with calling “Hello Friends”.

Thank you very much to my tracking partner & also those who read my report.

So this is the continuation of my Horton plains journey. If I describe story so far briefly:-

We started from Kalupahana and came to V cut by a three wheeler and started walking in the jeep track. Had a de tour to Top of Bambarakanda falls and came back then continued walking. After passing Devil staircase and walking further few kms we camped in the last part of the jeep track (in the tea estate) and reached Ohiya – HP paved road next morning and reached ticketing office around 8.00 a.m.

You can view the full report here.

After reaching Horton plains for the first time I was in a hunger cover many trails. Although my friends informed that’s difficult to cover so much in a single trip I was not in a position to give up. “If there is a will there is a way”. My plan was to cover Word’s end circular trail and Thotupola trail as fast as possible and to reach camp site 01 before dark. Then do the Kirigalpottha trail next morning and descend via Dayagama Trail.

I would say our timing was perfect as we finished all the trails earlier than we estimated. But Weather didn’t allow us to camp as it was raining and thundering in the evening but God had faith on us and introduced a kind hearted human so as to execute our rest of the plan smoothly.

So this is our Four Trail Marathon of Horton Plains

At the Ohiya entrance. We showed the receipt of Campsite booking and entered the park

There is nearly 5 km to the visitor centre. we walked nearly for 2km and hired a three wheeler for the next 3km

Along the way we saw the path to Ginihiriya Bungalow

Near canteen. Feeding wild animals is not a good thing. We also had our breakfast around 9.00 a.m.

Word’s End Circular Trail

We kept our bags at DWC office at farr inn and took only a bottle of water and proceeded. Wildlife officers requested us to remove even the polythene label of the bottle .That’s really good supervision.

Starting the circular trail Sharp at 9.30

Stream at Red Bridge

Beginning of Circular. We took the Right path

Chimny Pond

Another pond……….. Mutton Leg???

Belihul oya was flowing calmly

Entering the forest patch

Steps down to see baker’s falls

Baker’s falls- view from the observation point

View from the middle

View from the bottom

Promoting tourism………………….

Back to plain

flora

The Great World’s end Drop

Houses at the bottom ( Belihuloya )

Zoomed

Towards Mini world’s End

Mini World’s End Drop

Valley

relaxing

Interesting (Rawul Gas)…..From this point we speeded our walk

Interesting rocky path

wow

Closer to starting point of circular trail

We were at farr Inn at sharp 12.30 . Completed the trail within 3.00 hrs

Thotupola Trail

Then we came back to the car park and searched for a three wheeler. But there was only one. The driver was waiting for his visitors/passengers as he had to drop them to Pattipola. What to do. As humans who have the best ways of communication we should be able to solve a problem by negotiating peacefully. We gave him an offer.

First drop us at Thotupola and come quickly to car park to pick his passengers. Then drop them at Pattipola and come back again to pick us at Thotupola trail head. The bid we offered was 1500/-. He happily agreed.

So we got in to three wheeler and rushed towards Thottupola even without having lunch. He dropped us at Thotupola Trail head Sharp 1.10p.m and we told him to come and pick us at sharp 3.00 thinking we could cover the trail before 2 hours. We settled Rs.500/- for the initial journey and promised to settle balance after picking us .Also gave some extra money to bring a pair of batteries and some food items. Sometimes it’s worth trusting humans by taking a mild risk.

At the Thotupola trail head. We started Sharp 1.10

Important notice – Click Image to Enlarge

Misty path

Misty, rainy and dark .I loved this weather although it was not good for photography

Dark and mysterious ………

Resting a bit at a flat rock

Journey continued

Thotupola (familiar word for both of us. But this time it’s an unofficial visit )

New one

We were at the third highest peak of SL

We came to the summit around 1.55 p.m. since rain started to pour we crept in to a small hut nearby and waited for 10 minutes. Then we started coming back. It was like a marathon. Not only had we wanted to escape from rain we wanted to flee away from the mysterious dark surrounding. Two times we were stopped by a sound of a large animal that was running through the forest patch. Both times it was a large elk. Luckily we didn’t notice a clue about its predator.

We came back to the trail head at 2.25 p.m. it’s a real marathon to cover this trail in 1hr and 15 minutes. So we waited for our driver at the rest room/wash room which was being built.

Resting after the marathon

To our surprise our driver came at sharp 3.00. After thanking for the commitment and settling his balance we rushed to the canteen and had two large spicy egg fried rice.(They didn’t have fish or meat.).Then we came to Farr Inn before 4.00p.m. and got ready for the camping part.

Unsuccessful Camping

But weather was not friendly. It was raining and heavy winds aggravated the condition. Also few thunders were joining the tragedy. Wild life officers by their experience told us it was not suitable for camping. They also mentioned If we were deciding to abort camping better to leave park early as after 5.30 it would be difficult to find a mode of transportation. But I was not in a position to give up and told them we’ll wait till the last moment.

We waited till 5.30 but conditions were getting worse and we had to make a decision. I gave up the camping part but was really concerned about other upcoming two trails. Only option was to go back to Pattipola and come back in the morning which will consume a lot of time, money, and energy. I knew if we had gone to Pattipola or Ohiya it would have affected the positive mind set and Moral, surely it would have lead us to abort the trip from that point .Because I knew we couldn’t expect such a commitment and punctuality from our tired bodies and soul .

Again the Communication Skills came into part .We talked to the officer in charge for the night shift and clearly described our intentions. He was a Young, well understanding and kind gentlemen. And he was a very intelligent officer who used “Rubber Band Theory” at that moment and gave us an option where neither had he to break the rules nor we had to suffer the night. As there are some ethics to maintain I am not going to describe each and every thing. I can say because of his helping hand we were fresh, fit and positive enough at the Kirigalpoththa trail head by 6.30 a.m. following day.

Kirigalpoththa Adventure

Farr Inn

My Friend with the Helping Hand. New friendship is begun with two departments.

Our First attraction

Beautiful but threatening plants. Gave us a hard time to walk.

Morning view of the plain

Activities of big cats found even at the beginning

Mist ……….my favourite

flora

interesting

Came to the first forest patch

Came out of the forest….We passed a plain then a forest.Again a plain then forest for few times until we reach the last forest patch

Only decision point…Cross the stream..Turn right………that’s all…….

Drown in the mist

Bowitiya the queen in the hills

Spongy / bumping sections .here after we entered the final and the longest mountainous forest patch

What has happened to this large bee hive in Sri’s Report…. Tony must have eaten it all…

There were so many jungle cocks and emerald Doves eating Nelu seeds. But they didn’t give us a chance to picture them

Rock where we had breakfast

Lovely

Starting to climb the peak

Taking a small rest

Some barriers

Here we are at the viewing point which is 150m below the summit. But the view was not clear due to mist

So we made it interesting and adventurous. walking in narrow path in the misty and drizzling condition

There was a safe edge at either side. So we didn’t want to pick the forest trail(by route)

Slowly but carefully walked on the rock

Final part

Flat area at the summit .we reached the summit at 9.15a.m ( 2hrs and 45mins for the hike)

Here is the second highest peak of SL ( Similar rock arrangement as Thotupola)

How do you express your feelings in the highest peak which is accessible by foot…… ……..By Doing YOGA ?????

I’ll do it in my way……………………

beautiful

We waited nearly half an hour and decided to come back

Through the Nelu Bushes again

Foot prints of the Giant. It was not there when we were climbing. He had come to the foot path from right end and walked for 20-30meters and re entered to the forest from left side. Also there were nail marks on a tree .didn’t bothered to take a picture even and left the place with rocketing speed.

colourful

Coming to the plain. Is it Agra – Bopath mountains? we slowed down the speed after this

Maha Rath Mal

At 11.35a.m we were able to reach Farr in .We were above par to do this in 5hours as I was thinking of 6hrs initially..So we slowly refreshed and got ourselves ready for the return journey. We had a hearty meal at the canteen and said good bye to park and Wildlife officers then started our last trail at 1.15 p.m. That was to descend via Daygama

Dayagama Trail

We had to walk in the pattipola Road for nearly 500 m before we enter the trail head near one of the bungalows belonging to wildlife officers. I should say Dayagama trail is a very scenic and isolated one. It had been used to enter the park using vehicles early days. But it’s now abandoned. We were walking along the wide paved road (initial part was difficult) .It was truly a walking in the park (Almost no change in elevation).Mild breeze and scenic mountains washed away our tiredness. We felt like fit enough to do another three day trip. By 2.45 we were at the Dayagama upper division (estate /HP border)

Starting point

Beautiful mountains covered with thick forest

Refreshed by awesome surrounding

Initial part of the trail is washed away due to rain

Coming back to the paved section

Exchanging the back packs

Scenic

Original walking in the park

Path through the beautiful thick forest

More to go

One of many water streams we met

Trail end ( From HP)

Estate /Park Border

After reaching the park we rested for a while in the nearby Kovil .As I mentioned earlier our planning and timing was very successful as I had studied all the trails before the journey. But I couldn’t follow the Dayagama trail that much as it’s an easy and one way trail. So I forgot that we have to arrange transport from park border to Dayagama before descending. My assumption was no sooner we reached park border we could arrange a tri wheeler. It was not. There were no line houses or vehicles close by. I was undecided. I offered some panduru for the God and pleaded for an option. After that we started the journey again. While walking my friend also mimicked “three Wheel ekak labewa “

Kovil

We didn’t see any

Estate houses far away

After few minutes we saw the glimpse of line houses faraway .but there was such a distance if walked along the road. So were finding for short cuts through the tea estate and luckily we found it. So we decided to descend through tea estate. The view was priceless. And we got the bonus too. We saw a beautiful waterfall at the corner of the estate. Later I came to know ( From friends) it’s Agra Falls. She was fabulous. I realized why god hadn’t let us to travel by a tuk tuk at the beginning.

Descending through tea estate

Glimpse of a waterfall

Zoomed ………Bonus …..She was beautiful

Civilization is near

Then we reached the line houses and asked for a three wheeler. One guy promised to drop us at Dayagama for Rs.800/-.We reached Dayagama and took a bus to Hatton. We reached Hatton at 6.00 p.m. For our surprise there were no buses coming to Colombo. Funny thing was there were some brokers who arrange Vans which can accommodate 10-12 to go to Colombo at the cost of Rs 500/-each. Initially I refused to go in that way but finally decided to take the next van as there was no other option. Driver with a struggle picked 10 people and left Hatton around 7.00.It reached Kaduwela around 9.30 .From there we took another three wheeler to Battaramulla.We reached our home around 10.00. After the dinner my companion said good bye to me by ending our memorable three day hike to Heaven on Earth

This is just a beginning to my Horton plains Explorations .I would say this was a surface study. Willing to explore HP deeply in future .Till then bye for now.

Thanks for Reading

A long awaited dream…
Sometime ago while traveling on Ampara – Siyambalanduwa road I saw a giant box shaped rock and got to know the name “Govindahela”. I was fascinated to climb it but had literally no information about it. Later found an article on Lakdasun forum written by a foreign lady who climbed the rock. But that article was not very encouraging as her experience turned out to be a very tough and difficult one. A couple of years later suddenly there came a report on the forum by – of course – Ahsan, who had climbed it, alone, with not much hassle and once again I started living in my dream. But the year 2013 obstructed me with bad weather a several times and kept me away from fulfilling my dream. But this time however I found a way to sneak through.

The looooong ride…
The whole country was still in holiday mood on the weekend following Sinhala – Tamil New Year festival. The roads were empty, free from traffic jams, so I got into a Monaragala Bus from Pettah bus stand expecting a rather quick journey and fewer crowds. But surprisingly the bus was full when it left the bus stand and was packed when it passed Kaduwela. I had no problems with that since I was in a comfortable corner but I wasn’t comfortable with the speed bus traveled at all. It was one of the slowest bus journeys I have ever had and it took ages to get to my destination, Buttala where I was to meet Ashan for our first day’s excursion.

A quick connection…
I got down from Buttala starved to death as I had not eaten anything for many hours and annoyed by the long ride, badly wanting to have something to eat. I called Ashan who had come there after his morning duty and went towards the bus stand just to find him waving his hands from an already leaving bus signaling me to get in to it. Left out with no other option than getting in, I quickly caught the connection to Badalkumbura. It was a great relief to know that Ashan had bought us lunch packs. It took more than 30 minutes to get to Punsisigama where we got down.

Waterfalls of Menik Ganga…
We hired a three wheeler to reach two waterfalls formed of the Menik ganga river situated close to each other. With a banging subwoofer behind and a smoking driver in front of us, we got to the starting point of the stairway to the waterfall. The stairs got us only to the river where some villagers were bathing and we went a little further along the river to get to the top of the Pareviyan ella.

The path to the river

First of the many cascades right at the bottom of the stairway

View from the top of Pareviyan Ella

Pareviyan Ella cascading point

Then we took the footpath to the base of the fall. Though we thought the water level would be low since it was the dry season, Pareviyan Ella had enough water thanks to a few recent showers in the area.

On the way down to teh base

Pareviyan Ella

The falls and its 70 feet deep base pool

It was lovely

Top part of the right side fall

The base

.	Left side part plunging down

.	Ancient rock steps on teh other side of the fall

It was too sunny and difficult to capture at slow shutter speeds

Amazing rock formations…

Along this part of the river we came across some amazing rock formations. The turbulent waters of the river had beautifully crafted the rocks into many shapes, smoothly polished rock slabs and some scary looking pits with depths of many feet. Some multicolored rock surfaces also were among these wonders.

Through a small cannyon

Scary looking

A deep hole carved in

Shapes

Colors

A rock slab

smoooooooth…

wow

Beautiful

Enjoying the views of the rock formations and some mini cascades we trek another short distance down the river to come to the top of the Dunhinda falls of Menik River. It seems like the name “Dunhinda” is common to some fantastic looking waterfalls of Uva province. As Ashan said there is another waterfall named Dunhinda formed of the menik river further up. This Dunhinda wall was a real beauty with a good height. It looked like it was at least 30 or 40 meters in height.

Going down along the river

Pareviyan ella framed

lovely

a mini cascade

another beautiful cascade

Dunhinda cascading point and a mini cascade

wow	Dunhinda plunges down

wow she’s a beauty

.

The top

Mini waterfall

WOW

.

sadly, only the side view…

gorgeous…

and the river flows on…

.

The base

.

This cascade was lovely

another cascade

Ambitious but…

Dunhinda fall was plunging down the sheer vertical drop off a wide rock slab. As it seemed it would create a mighty wide fall during the rainy season. There was no path to the base of the fall and both sides of the fall also had a sheer vertical drop as same as the falls itself. It looked too dangerous to descend directly, so we came up with an ambitious plan to reach the base of the pool. Our plan was to climb up the hill on the left side of the falls and then find a way down from the other side.

With Ashan leading the way, we set off for a very hectic mission than we thought. The climb was serious, the undergrowth was thick, and the soil was loose and slippery and on top of all it was extremely hot and humid making us sweaty as sweaty can be. After a short time we came across a large boulder blocking our way which we tried to avoid by going around it. Then we saw a slope towards the river and started going down. Crawling down a couple of rocks we came to a small clear area where we could see outside just to find all our efforts has gone in vain. We were still on top of the fall and more annoyingly further behind than our starting point. We had no idea where we lost our direction. We were short of energy and time for going back and search for a different path. So we decided to bare the disappointment and to refresh ourselves. After coming back to the place where we saw the villagers were bathing we jumped into the river and had our lunch. It was great to have a dip in the chest height cool water after a hectic day.

Going back

The oasis…

what a lovely place to have a cool dip

wow

The time has come…

Of course, to fulfill my long awaited dream I was excited. Wanted to leave Monaragala as early as possible but the 1st bus to Ampara was leaving Monaragala at 6.30 in the morning. But on that day it seemed to be either missing or late. So we got into a Buddama bus and got down from 9th milepost junction after about 1.5 hours journey, then walked about another 600 – 700 meter to our destination.

The rock was standing majestically under the morning sun very close to the road and the temple at the base of it was right by the roadside. We spoke to the chief monk and informed that we are going to climb the rock and set off. The first part was a nice easy walk through a lovely forest patch. Though it was the dry zone, it had fairly good undergrowth.

direction board

The giant

The temple

here we go

shady path

lovely path

After crossing two streams over the remains of – what used to be – bridges over them the climb got steep and got steeper in no time. We were ascending along the rock steps and in some places along the footpath over the rocks. It was just the morning and was very shady inside the jungle but we were already soaked with sweat. After about one hours walk we came to the base of the rock where we saw the gigantic rock wall standing to the sky above us through a small opening in the tree canopy.

once a bridge…

how we crossed it

.	it was a lovely forest

wild flowers

well, there were ferns

a rock cave

flat areas were extremely rare

the path

arched

sun wastrying hard to sneak through the tree cannopy

steep

and a glimpse of our destination…

The climb got harder after this point until we met the mighty rock wall itself. It was a 90 degree vertical rock surface challenging us. We would not have climbed it if not for the six iron ladders placed at the most difficult parts. The ladders were not in very good shape except for a couple of them. We climbed them cautiously to reach the “sulang kapolla” where we were offered a great view towards the east coast.

the first two ladders. had to keep the camera inside for some time from this point onwards

what we saw at the sulang kapolla

Towards east coast over the Konduru hela

we came along this drop…

Dream fulfilled…

Another short climb after the sulang kapolla took us to the top of the rock. I was ecstatic by the fact that I fulfilled my long awaited dream and by the mesmerizing view unfolded in front of us. It was a grand panoramic view stretching over many miles towards all directions.

The awesome we greated us at the top…

WOW…

a pano

Towards Siyambalanduwa

.

the large pond carved into the rock at the forst view point

.

towards Monaragala over Muthukandiya

Muthukandiya reservoir zoomed. Maragala kanda is seen faintly in the backdrop

9th milepost junction, Buddama road and Ampara road seen

The king’s seat (Rajaasanaya)

the elevation

Magnifiscent…

Govindahela…

The 558m tall iconic monadnock in Siyambalanduwa, a far corner of the Uva province is easily identifiable unmistakably from anywhere you see it. The rock not only a natural phenomenon but also has a long history. It is said to have existed as a fortress of an ancient king – as I read, a king named Buwanekabahu. But I could not find more information to determine which Buwanekabahu this was, as the information I read in couple places were confusing. However it is obvious why this place was chosen as a fortress by whomever the king. Its natural unreachable formation and the excellent view towards all directions would have made it an ideal stronghold.

Later the Englishmen named it “Westministers Abbey” due to its shape. Today the rock is known by both names.

Still there are remains of ancient structures. We saw about five ponds carved into the rock and another large pond on top of the rock. The rock walls of that pond are still in good shape. There were many other ruins and some inscriptions as well. We also could witness the treasure hunter’s leftovers, some of very recent activities.

ruined pun kalasa

this moonstone was in very good shape

the large pond

rock walls of the pond

.	another moonstone, faded…

Pillars

someone has tried to read the inscription very recently

another pond carved into the rock

another one

looked like carrying water to the pond

vandalized

one more…

After spending nearly one and half hours enjoying the endless stunning views from all four view points and roaming around the jungle patch on top of the rock we started getting down. The first thing we did after getting down was informing the monks about the evidences of recent treasure hunting activities we saw.

a pano from teh second view point

first view point seen from the second

the drop of forst view point

what a view…

towards wadinagala range

Wadinagala peak zoomed. Jayanthi lake and Gal Oya reservoir seen

Jayanthi lake in front and Gal oya reservoir in back with Walasgala mountain in between them and mount Inginiyagala behind it

from the view point #3

lovely

wow

.

.

mind blowing scenaries

lovely…

third view point seen from the fourth view point

towards east

the two man team

the king should have felt ‘Majestic’ with the view in front of him…

the last one

And a video clip of our hike -

Thank you for reading.

Hiya folks, it’s me back again with a fairy tale of mine. This is a pretty special one as I’d been dreaming about this journey for 360 days. Yeah, you heard right, nearly one year, I’d been dreaming night and day like longing to do this. It nearly made me go out of my mind as I kept going through this journey in my mind over and over again. So let me tell you the story of my beloved Lakegala, the most beautiful girl in the most beautiful village on earth.

It was 23rd April 2013 when I first went to Meemure (See the report here: Jaunting off to the Most Beautiful Village on Earth – Meemure) and fell in love with this unique and unbelievably beautiful village. The hallmark of Meemure was another uniquely shaped beauty called Lakegala, the pointed rocky mountain measuring 4200ft and soaring high into the Dumbara sky. She was the tallest of all until the land meets the eastern border.

It’s believed that the sailors and other travelers who came to Sri Lanka used Lakegala as a directional point just like ships use light houses. She was called “Illakkagala” (The rock that they aimed at) as a result which in turn became “Lakegala”. She’s also called “Maha Pabbatha Parwathaya” and the Meemure, “Maha Pabbatha Gramaya”. The legendary ruler of ancient Sri Lanka, Ravana the Great had apparently used Lakegala as one of his many hideouts. There are also beliefs about a nuclear war occurred during his era resulting a huge chunk of Lakegala being sliced like a bread and mammoth chunks of rocky boulders falling into the tank below towards Narangamuwa. (You can check my visit to that place here: Long Range Reconnaissance Patrol – Meemure & Narangamuwa)

Every time, I visited Meemure (3 times before) I saw this beautiful mountain looking at me, smiling with me as if beckoning me to come see her up close, but I had to be patient and take it easy as it was a real challenge and I didn’t want it to be a failure attempt. I wanted to savor her for as long as I could and was planning something extravagant. Eventually, when I went up all the way, I felt the wait was worth every second and the journey memorable. I’ll treasure this until the day I leave this world.

From the first day in Meemure, Nava mama had been my faithful contact person, never letting me down and always taking care of me and whoever went with me as best as he could. His wife was the perfect host one could hope for, always ready to make you feel welcome. His house was just like my own and I felt at home whenever I went there. I had been pestering him for the last year or so about the journey to Lakegala and when I made my plans for this April, he was more than ready to take up the challenge.

However, this wasn’t a journey a lot of people could go as it involves intense hiking and rope climbing. You gotta have a small team of like-minded people who have done some serious hikes before. There are a quite a few of my friends I crossed by doing this on my own (well, Dodam was a surprise addition) as they all were very keen on doing this. However, reflecting back, I feel I did the right thing by not going in a larger group as it’d have taken more time and delayed the whole journey. So let me say sorry from the bottom of my heart for everyone I made feel heart broken by not inviting them.

My initial plan to do this hike was with Athula after my third visit to Meemure (Check the report under Notes) but he had other engagements and informed me that he won’t be available for the journey. So it was down to me and I decided to do it on my own not wanting to wait another year yearning for this. However, on the New Year’s Day I called Dodam to wish him for his birthday (what a coincidence!) and casually mentioned that I’d be going to Meemure again. I wasn’t expecting him to join me as he too was like Uncle Tony, living under the shadow of his wife doing once in a while journey nowadays.

For some unknown reason, he said he’d check with the high command and let me know and I knew what the answer would be. “Machan, I won’t be able to do it this time coz she’s not happy me going. So let’s try something else in the future.” This was the typical answer I’ve received countless times when planning journeys so wasn’t hoping a different one this time. Harinda had always wanted to do this and I just called to check if he was free but he said the leave had been cancelled till 20th April until the rush hour is over. So I didn’t mention anything about my journey and told him if he’s free to join me for a special tour on 18 April.

Thing were taking a bad turn as the rains kept pouring with thundering and lightning threatening the tear the country apart. Usually April is very popular for lightning and thundering (Bak Maha Akunu) and I was so worried coz the long wait was going to be fruitless after all. I called Nava mama and he said it’s started raining after a long time and might go on for some time. My heart sank and I wanted to crawl into a tiny hole and sleep like a grizzly bear for a long time. I was torn, heart-broken and feeling depressed beyond imagination.

On the 16th, Dodam called out of nowhere and said he’d come after all. Well this was a surprise and I decided to go ahead with my plan and visit Meemure, try and do some other trail around Meemure. So I decided to go anyway as I’d already taken leave and do something or the other.

Day 01

I joined Dodam at Fort Station around 5.00am and the station was filled to the brim with hundreds of people going on vacation as it too was a long weekend. Fortunately Dodam had come early and joined the queue making it easy for us to grab two tickets for the 5.55am Podi Menike but she didn’t appear till 5.40am by which time the whole platform was nothing but a mass of heads.

Tour Highlights:

1. Mini World’s End – Deanston
2. Lakegala
3. Trail from Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa

We managed to squeeze inside and put our heavy backpacks on the rack but seating was beyond our reach. No breakfast, no water and no seats, what a start for a journey. We settled in for the 3-hour journey to Kandy while everyone else was pushing and squashing each other trying to get more comfortable. The S-12 was slower than usual and had to stop at stations longer than she usually does due to the heavy crowds. Thankfully around Polgahawela, group of girls started singing some songs and it was a nice little diversion for our painful legs. They kept missing words and adding their own in place but it was better than nothing.

Passing Ihala Kotte, we saw the Bathalegala in the distance waving at us and sexy Alagalla was covered in clouds. I’m yet to go see her, maybe some other time. I called Nava mama and asked him to send the tuk-tuk to Hunnasgiriya around 10.00am. Dodam kept pacifying me saying it wouldn’t rain but I was horror stricken inside. The funny thing was Dodam still didn’t know what the actual plan was coz I kept him in the dark saying planning to do something and let’s go see first. We reached Kandy after it felt like an eternity and walked towards Good Shed and found a CTB travelling to Mahiyanganaya and immediately got in. No breakfast, no water and again no seating.

The journey was getting tougher even before we’d started our original hike. Eventually we reached Hunnasgiriya around 10.45am and went to the shop where the Meemure Van stops for some meals. Fortunately they had rice and curry ready and we ate like paupers. I called Nava mama but he wasn’t around but Nenda said Chanaka, our first time tuk-tuk fella had come and should reach soon. So we waited and he came and was very surprised to see me. I was the one who took him to the Mini World’s End for the first time and he still joked about it.

After a satisfying meal, we set off and the road is now being carpeted and they had done more since my last visit in end March. However, there are places it’s pretty bad as still the construction work is undergoing, especially after Deanston until Loolwatte, the road is in very bad condition but passable if you drive carefully. Dodam hadn’t seen Mini World’s End before so he wanted to visit and I obliged as there was nothing planned for the day. Chanaka played the guide and I just kept quiet. The walk was a pleasure and I kept looking up to see if there are signs of rain.

Chanaka said it’d been raining for the last couple of days making me want to vomit. We finished the journey in no time and there were a lot of people who’d come to visit. Along the way we saw plenty of vehicles coming to and from Meemure, it looked as if the whole country was out there in Meemure. We reached Nava mama’s house around 2.30pm and a sumptuous meal awaited us. Nava mama was delighted to see me and we made small chat and had a wash followed by a hearty meal. Afterwards, Dodam and I went for a walk in the village while paying a quick visit to “Wana Arana”, Nava mama’s camping site and enjoyed the beauty of this scenic village. Lakegala was there larger than life smiling broadly, happy to see me yet again. I guess she felt what I was thinking. I kept mumbling in my mind asking her to keep the rains and winds away.

Around 4.30pm, the clouds arrived thick and fast and we heard the distance rumble of thunder making us run all the way back to Nava mama’s house. If I had any hope of doing Lakegala, this nearly made it the last nail of the coffin. Having come back and lying in one of the mattresses cursing the rain and thunder with all the bad words I could think wasn’t gonna help my cause but I kept at it. The sky split into many pieces with lightning and I decided to call it quits.

Around 8.00pm, everything settled down and thunder and rain vanished without a trace of them being just a short while ago and my hopes soared into the sky. I went and asked Nava mama, “Mama, shall we go no matter what happens? To hell with this rain and thundering.” He must’ve sensed my state and very reluctantly agreed. I came and broke the news to Dodam and asked if he’d wanna join the hike regardless of what happens and he jumped in. That settled everything in under 5mins and we were ready to go.

To begin with, Color of Love

Inside the tiny lake

First time I saw the Frogs’ Eggs, they are laid close to the water so that when the tiny ones come out of this, will fall straight into water

Familiar sightings

Getting a new dimension of things

What a leisure walk

Wow, love the contrast

The bridge at the entrance

Super Macro

Panorama of the mountains visible from the View Point 2

See if you can match them to the above Pano (Click Image to Enlarge)

Facts of Knuckles Mountain Range

Got these pics inside the (top floor) KCC office. Thought of sharing as they have some valuable information about the Knuckles Mountains.

The Summary (Click image to enlarge)

Land mass (Click image to enlarge)

Life around the mountains (Click image to enlarge)

Must See (Click image to enlarge)

To-do-list (Click image to enlarge)

In detailed (Click image to enlarge)

The places to stay (Click image to enlarge)

Bio Diversity (Click image to enlarge)

Day 02

Nava mama called Kalu Malli, saying he’s the ideal person for hikes like these and fortunately for us, Chanaka too agreed to come. After a hearty meal, we went to bed and I couldn’t remember sleeping that peacefully for some time. Morning arrived with birds chirping happily and fresh mountain air making me feel I’m in heaven. Kalu Malli and Chanaka arrived by 8.00am and we got busy arranging everything under the instruction of Nava mama and Kalu malli.

“Take plenty of water” was the theme of the day. Everyone and even Dinky the dog was pointing at the directions of plastic bottles indicating we carry as much water as possible. It was easier said than done. It took us nearly 3 hours to pack, repack, check and double check to be sure that we got everything right, constantly haggling over this and that. Let me give you a list of the items we carried with the quantity too so that you’ll get an idea as to how to plan if you ever do this journey.

This journey can be separated into 3 main parts:

1. From Nava Mama’s House to Lakegala Base Pool – 3-4km (Moderate)

2. Lakegala Base Pool to the Base of the Rocky Surface – 1-2km (Moderately Strenuous)

3. Rocky Surface to the Top – 1-2km (Extremely Strenuous)

Just remember, you don’t have to carry full stock of water till you reach the Lakegala Base Pool coz there’s a stream from which you can fill up your containers. There’s no need for you to get tired unnecessarily. There’s no water after this so be mindful to take as much water as possible for you to carry.

List of items we carried for 6 People:

• Water – 21 liters (2 5-litre cans, 6 1.5-litre bottles, 1 1-litre bottles & 2 500ml bottles)

• 6 Packets of Instant Noodles – For Breakfast

• 1 Can of Baked Beans – For Breakfast

• 4 Large Lunch Packets (To eat before we started the ascend from the base) – For Lunch

• 1 Large Pack of Boiled Manioc with Lunu Miris & about 8 Thosai like Rotti – For Dinner

• 3 Packets of Biscuits (Lemon Puff, Hawaiian Cookies & Snack Crackers)

• Packs of Samahana, Coffee, Tea and Sugar

• Medium-sized Cooking Pot with the Cover

• 2 Two-man Tents with Rain Covers

• 1 Machete and 1 Large Knife

• Few Onions, Garlic and Lemons

• Small Medical Kit (Siddhalepa, Panadol, Salon Pas, etc.)

• 6 Plates cut off from Aricanut Leaves (Puwak Kolapath)

• Box of Matches and a Lighter

• 4 Ropes (Each about 100ft in length)

• 5 Torches

• 1 Packet of Candles

• Plenty of Thala Leaves, Aricanut, Tobacco Leaves and Hunu

I guess I haven’t missed anything above, if so, will let you know later. We set off around 11.15am, Nava mama carrying a Mati Pahana with Oil to be lit at the Devalaya off the Paddy Field before crossing the Meemure Oya. The back packs were heavily laden with the stuff but we didn’t fill the water containers as we could fill them up from the base pool.

From Nava Mama’s House to Lakegala Base Pool

We reached the Bo Maluwa passing the Mee Gaha where we bought our ropes, packs of noodles and the lighter. We met a boy sitting idling at the Bo Maluwa whose name was Mihindu. While we waited for Chanaka to bring the tents from the campsite, he asked if he could also join for this. Guess what, being a village boy, he’s not done Lakegala before and what a chance for this guy to do it for the first time and in grand style.

Getting permission from Nava mama, he ran to the house nearby and brought back with him a sarong and a bed sheet and joined the Ravana Balakaya for this memorable journey. He actually completed our Six Pack and we set off along the path and then through the lush green paddy fields. Lakegala was standing tall, majestic than ever and all of a sudden I felt that it won’t rain this day. I always love the color of green of Meemure paddy fields as they’re different from what I’ve seen elsewhere. They have that lushness which is unique and mind blowing. We reached the Devalaya and Nava mama, Kalu Malli and Dodam went in and lit the lamp asking for a safe journey from God Gale Bandara aka King Ravana the Great. Looking back, I feel he was protecting us all the way, making sure we reach our goal and get back safely without any harm.

Getting his blessings, we carried on towards the Lakegala Base Pool. This is a moderate hike but with back packs and the entire luggage, it can test your stamina to the limit. Kalu Malli stopped to pluck a whole bunch of Thala Leaves (Supplement for Betel Leaves) and picked a few aricanuts too. Chanaka helped him find a few Puwak Leaves and cut nice plates out of them making the journey as much eco-friendly as possible.

I’ll skip the details of our journey to the Lakegala Base Pool as I’ve done it two time before and given in detail as to what to expect. However, the Akula Ella had very little water, tiny line of water falling in a sad state despite the rains. There were no leeches to bother and we arrived at the base pool panting like a pack of wolves after a run in the wilderness. Got undressed and went for a dip in the base pool soaking our sweat streaked body in cool water, rubbing away our tiredness and making us hungrier all the time.

We met a group of 4 people already resting there after lunch. They’d tried to climb to the top but couldn’t even reach the base of the rocky surface. The guide with them informed us that there’s another bunch of boys trying to get to the top as we speak. However, he asked if he could join us and wanted us to wait till he went and dropped the team that had come with him. I didn’t like him or his attitude and didn’t hesitate to voice my dislike out loud. He got the message and left with his team. For some reason, I knew they won’t be able to get to the top coz today belonged to us and Lakegala won’t let any intruder ruin our stay. After a hearty meal we rested our legs for the final assault while Kalu Malli and Chanaka filled our water containers from the nearby stream.

I shot a series of 14 videos throughout the whole journey and have uploaded them separately. (If you haven’t seen it already, check the link given at the end of the report.)

Healthy Breakfast

Nava mama’s grand daughter saying “Watch it”

Not ripe enough to carry with us

She’s the Best, the Most Beautiful and the Greatest

The team, behind me is Mihindu and then Chanaka behind Nava Mama and Kalu Malli next to him and Dodam to extreme right

The Devalaya

Getting the blessings

Lighting nicely

Took me about 15mins of running about to get her

There she is

Getting a much needed break

Pooh!

Many of them making patterns and adding beauty to the jungle

The team is amazed by the sheer height

Getting a much needed bath before the climb

Photogenic fella

Plants like these along with Mana bushes helped us keep steady and climb to the top

Time to go up

From Base Pool to the Rocky Surface

Heavily laden with the backpacks and feeling content after the meal, we started our ascend to the top. Right from the word go, the terrain was difficult to maneuver with loose rocks and thorn bushes. I was in shorts and a regular T-shirt with short sleeves. Everywhere which was exposed got bruised by these unforgiving thorn bushes making me flinch at every step we took. About 200-300m into the journey, I heard Dodam swear “Oh Dear!” and looking up saw a 5-litre water can toppling down the raving cracking the plastic and splashing water all over.

Mihindu, our newly found friend had dropped one of the two precious 5-litre cans. Oh my gosh! What we were to do. We noted the place as it was important to take the plastic bottle back with us on our way. That was a very bad mistake and we were down to 16 liters of water right at the beginning with 6 people to drink, cook and make tea/coffee. Chanaka was furious and kept scolding Mihindu who looked aghast but we all felt sorry for the bugger as he can’t have dropped it on purpose. Nava mama got a rope and bound it securely around the mouth of the can and showed him how to carry it without dropping. All our lives depended on this last 5-litre water bottle even though we had our own small ones with us.

There was no clear pathway but we followed the cattle tracks where they’d climbed as far as to the rocky surface searching for lush grass during the dry season. Having climbed for about 500m, we reached the edge of the ground where a deep ravine and the proper base of Lakegala could be seen about 400-500ft below. The view was both grand and scary at the same time. One false step, you’d be heading headlong into this abyss with no chance of returning on your own. However, the Lakegala looked serene and calm, there was a slow breeze coming from helping us walk a bit easily. This is when we had our first quota of water, a 500ml bottled shared between the 6 of us (less than 75ml per person) leaving a small amount at the bottom. We were gonna save every drop of water after the fiasco at the base.

We kept well into the safety of the ground away from the edge of the ravine and met the second group coming back having abandoned their adventure at the rocky base. There were about 8-10 boys in all and they too thought we’d face the same result. However, when we said that we plan to try and get to the top and stay overnight, most of them laughed at us. Leaving them behind us we pushed on. The path is as I mentioned above bordered by a deep ravine which kinda makes a waterfall during the rainy season but now completely dry. We had to cross this over to the other side.

With the help of Kalu Malli, Chanaka and Nava mama I managed to do this without falling along the waterfall and got to the other end of the ravine. The bushes were thicker and fiercer. Kalu malli led the way with the machete chopping down as much bushes as possible trying to clear a path but little room we got. I was the worst affected out of the whole group, surprisingly Dodam kept a steady pace matching the others but I was falling behind big time. Nava mama was always there encouraging me and helping me cross difficult terrain, taking easier paths and guiding me. As I said in the notes, I’d trust him with my life anytime. We went and climbed and climbed and climbed towards the rocky surface. Looking up all I saw was a gigantic and near vertical rocky surface soaring into the sky, towering over you almost in an intimidating gesture as if challenging you to climb if you dare.

Just be warned, all around is the endless bottom and if you have even a slight hesitation, please don’t attempt this. You’ll not only put your life in danger but your team members too. The view is magnificent but pretty frightening too. I wanted to climb to the top before the sunset but by the time we reached the base of the rocky surface, it was past 4.15pm. It was an achievement in itself and I had to make up my mind whether to go further or make it a day and return home. This is the ideal place for you to do it. There was a rocky ledge making it look like a cave but the floor was not flat but a slope, so there’s no hope of staying there.

We got the ropes ready, tied at the ends and making a one large rope and packed everything tightly and got ready to do the 70-80-degree climb to the top.

Going up fully laden

Wishing us luck

Already lost a 5-litre can and Nava mama tying a rope around the bottle to be sure it won’t meet the same fate

When it rains, this place turns into a waterfall, we had to walk up then cross to the right and go up further

The team bringing the rear, see the drop getting scarier by the minute

Towards Attala Mittuwa, Nitro Caves and Gala Muduna

Nava mama taking in the surroundings

To the base of Lakegala, see the sheer drop, Meemure paddy fields are in the distance

Oh dear!

The second group who’d failed to go any further than the rocky surface going downhill, at times hooting from the top of their voice

Thunnisgala, the highest peak in Knuckles

Thorny bushes dragging you backwards

Still a lot more before we reach the rocky base

Waving in the wind

You can never get enough of this endless beauty

Kalu malli and the team behind, see the bushes and trees making it hard to go

Don’t stay too long here coz this is a resting place of cattle and you’re bound to get some ticks dropped by them

Going uphill became more challenging

Endless mountains kept us busy with our cameras

We just crossed to the right of the ravine to go around to the rocky base

Nava mama, the Lone Ranger of Meemure

He took good use of his new camera

The drop getting more and more and my tummy beginning to growl all the more

The cave but no chance of styaing inside. Can you see the slope?

Kalu Malli and the team taking pics of the rock formation

Towards Riverston from the cave

Thunnisgala, Belumgala and the rest

Taking a rest before attempting to take the toughest bit

Just imagine our plight

Had a hard time keeping my legs steady coz of the drop

Rocky Surface to the Top

This is when my legs really started playing all the musical instruments in the world, from Violin to Sitar to Mandolin plus the Base Guitar too. I was sitting rather leaning on the rock looking around as if a trapped animal, horror written all over my face and Chanaka mocking me all the time but Nava mama and Kalu Malli reassuring that this could be done with no problem. If only my legs could understand this. Kalu malli went up with the rope expertly as if walking along Galle Road (This is what we usually call in Sinhala as “Game Yanawa”) the length of the rope and rested himself in a gap tying it around his waist and supporting with the foot.

Everyone had to take off shoes and walk barefoot or with rubber slippers but I wouldn’t hear any of that. I was adamant and refused to remove shoes no matter what happened. Finally everybody gave in to my request and agreed to help me more along the way. Chanaka went first carrying two bags with him without even touching the rope making me jittery. Then it was Mihindu’s turn and the bugger was practically shitting himself as he held on to the rope and started crawling up the surface. Chanaka was screaming at him giving instructions as to how to go up but not to crawl like a tortoise. He took no notice of this as he kept looking below and going one step at a time. Nava mama sensibly asked him to stop about 100ft up and rest himself while someone else goes to where Kalu Malli was waiting.

I wasn’t gonna be the next instead pushed Dodam to the devil’s mouth but he went up like a monkey expertly holding the rope and walking in a more professional manner, even teaching me how to do it. Chanaka kept shouting at Mihindu to learn how to do it and after Dodam got to the top in a jiffy, he started the rest of the journey with sheer agony hovering like a cloud over him. After a long time, he was with Kalu malli and the rest of the crew and it was Sri Abeywickrema’s turn to try this horrendous bit. I’d never done any rope climbing like this before but sheer longing of Lakegala kept me going. I guess she made me feel stronger giving me moral support all the way.

I left the backpack with Nava mama who said he’d take it with him and I took hold of the rope, imagine myself floating in heaven, imitated Dodam as best as I could and climbed up. Surprisingly it was not so difficult and I made good speed and reached the first check point with no problem. This made everyone taking Mihindu for the bite of the day. Having reached the resting place and waiting for Nava mama to come with the rope gave me some time to shoot a video and take some breathtaking pics.

The team got together at the first check point and heaved a sigh of relief. There was no going back now but upwards. Kalu malli as usual took the rope and got to the top as far as the rope would let and rested himself allowing us to move up. We followed the same routine but this was one of the most difficult bits out of the four. It took us longer and made us exhausted beyond imagination. I wanted water more than anything and after everyone got together at the check point 2; we had a couple of sips of water. It felt like heaven when cold water trickling down your throat making you feel so relaxed. I was so happy with myself. Two more difficult climbs and it’d be down to walking through the thick Mana bushes to the top.

Everything was repeated the same order and we reached the 3rd check point which was the most difficult. It drained all my energy and Nava mama was always behind me pushing and helping me get a proper foothold which is difficult with my shoes. Despite all the difficulties we all reached the 3rd check point and celebrated in style but one more to go. It was relatively easy and the sun was hiding behind clouds already and the time was already getting to 5.30pm. My idea of reaching the top by 5.30pm shattered into many million pieces right in front of me but I was hopeful to get to the top somehow or the other.

Final stretch, we hurried and even Mihindu after so much climbing made it easily and we left the rope tied to the iron rod at the 3rd check point and a tree at the check point 4. Just remember there are two iron roads buried in the rocky surface at check point 2 and 3 making it easy to tie a rope. We started walking kind of a horizontal line trying to make a circular path to the top but surprisingly the top is heavily overgrown with Mana Bushes and worse 4-6 feet tall trees covering the whole ground making the walk through nearly impossible. I’d never been a fan of Mana bushes but in this journey it was my best friend. I’d never been happier to see Mana bushes in my whole life.

We didn’t bother taking any more sips of water coz it was crucial we keep as much as possible for the worst case scenario. Walking through the jungle holding onto the Mana bushes for the dear life even though it meant your palms were getting cut all over. We were relentless after all these obstacles, nothing was gonna stop us from reaching our goal now. However, the darkness kept enveloping us as time went past 6.15pm giving only a faint light to see where we were going. After a while, having gone right and left, we figured that we were hopelessly lost and was worried sick. However after a while, King Ravana looked upon us as Kalu malli shouted of finding a path.

We all flocked around him to see clear signs of someone walked through the Mana bushes leaving a clear trail. Nava mama said no one had come to the top in a long time so there simply can’t be a trail like this, especially through all these heavily overgrown trees and plants. Nava mama said the King Ravana must’ve felt sorry for us and showing the path. He also told us a story that happened about 15 years ago. Once a group of village youths had climbed the Lakegala and ran out of water. So they had walked here and there trying to get some water but obviously there’s no water source on top. However one person had spotted water gushing through a cracked rocky surface and immediately called the others and filled their canteens.

Having stayed the night and they decided to go search for the water source in the morning. When they went, there wasn’t a sign of the water source. So people believe that if you’re good-natured, well-behaved, you’d be looked after by the Ravana the God. I feel the same thing happened to us, he looked upon us and showed us the path. We followed it all the way for about half a km till we reached where people of Meemure (45 in all) had done a Pirith Chanting ceremony on the summit having erected a Pirith Mandapa in 1998. The trail took us to the very spot and we saw the remaining wooden planks and tied clothes on the trees. We hungrily gulped some water but Chanaka kept a tight rein over our quota once again blaming Mihindu for dropping that water bottle.

Kalu malli took the rope up and Chanaka following him, not even touching the rope

Directing Kalu malli’s ascent

Mihindu trying to crawl up while Nava mama giving directions

Just like a snail

“Ayyo, not anymore”

“Kollo bima balanna epa” – Nava mama must’ve said this more than 100 times

Check point 2, Nava mama coming up with the baggage

Scared Mihindu, but Kalu malli kept videoing while holding onto the rope

The Sherpas of Meemure, Nava mama and Chanaka

It was all Mihindu’s show

I kept looking up coz was too scared to look down

Dodam had very little problems compared to me

Sun was slowly dipping below the mountains of Riverston

The reliable climber, Kalu malli led the journey all the way

I was dead scared to see him climb like that

Look at Nava mama

The Iron Rod at Check Point 3, we had done 3/4 of rope climbing and one more to go. Sun is going away so fast

Final stretch

Last pic before we reached the campsite… was too busy holding onto Mana bushes than taking pics and low light didn’t help either

Camping on the Top

The place had been invaded by trees and we fortunately had the machete and switching on our torches, Kalu Malli, Chanaka, Nava Mama, Mihindu and Dodam started clearing a camping site for our two tents. There was very little flat ground and we cleared enough to put up our two tents and beyond that cleared a bit more for our kitchen. I was thankful for Nava mama to have invited Kalu Malli and Chanaka as those two lads, strong as horses, kept at hacking until the ground was cleared and ready to put up the tents.

They didn’t stop for one second and got the tent up and about under 10mins. Keeping our bags inside, we started setting up the kitchen. Kalu malli expertly dug a hole in the ground to light the fire because we didn’t want any fire cracklings making their way into the dry Mana bushes lighting the whole area making us BBQed alive. I took out the packet of candles and lit them around the camp fire so as to save the power on our torches. It felt very intimate to stay among the candles. There wasn’t a hint of rain but we felt distant rumblings towards Riverston but nothing came even close to us. We were a happy bunch and Kalu malli soon boiled water and made Black coffee mixed with Samahan for our battered bodies. I called it Kalu malli’s Kasaya but we savored every drop of it.

We didn’t plan to cook anything that night coz wanted to save water for breakfast. Unfolding the Manioc and Roti parcels with Lunu Miris, we faced a dilemma coz if we used our hands, we had to wash them and we simply couldn’t afford to waste water for that. We improvised by cutting the roti into small pieces and used sticks cut away from the nearby trees as tooth picks or folks and dug into the pieces of Manioc and Roti and spread them with Lunu Miris by rolling them along the paste and ate in chunks. Gosh, it tasted so good and we could use the water otherwise used to wash hands now to drink in long gulps rather than sip.

We walked a bit downhill towards the tip of Lakegala and flashed our torches towards the village. I felt so glad that the village now bears electricity. We could make out lights and the villagers took out their torched and flashed them back at us. The whole village knew of our ascend to the top and we were like Royals sitting at Buckingham Palace.

After that, we sat around the fire talking about the day’s events and deciding what to do on the following day. Around 9.30pm, we crawled inside our tight-fitting tents (thankfully we all were lean fellas) and prepared for the dream angel to come hug us as tightly as possible. It took me so long to sleep coz I was so excited and kept listening to the sounds of the jungle and the hum of insects and various birds. The wind was kept to a minimum, barely rustling even the leaves, the rain kept so far away but Nava mama had put up the rain covers on top of our tents just in case. It proved to be a very wise decision coz in the morning we found hundreds of dew drops sitting on them. Without them, we would’ve chilled to the bone.

Took under 10mns to set them up

Chanaka and Mihindu making a hole for the hearth

I lit the whole area up with candles

Kalu malli waiting for the water to boil, look at the candles

On the tree as well

Very faint signal and Nava mama calling home to inform that we arrived safely

Adding firewood ever so gently

Going well

The all-rounder

The short walk from tents to the kitchen is lighted by candles to save power of torches

“Badaginiyoooooooooooo”

Boiled to the perfection

Improvisation

Manioc vanished into thin air and time to dig into Rotti

After a hearty meal, team reflecting on day’s events

Fire going strongly

Sharing a joke, for the first time Mihindu found something to laugh

Night life, a Cricket coming out of its protective layer

Closer

Good night team!

Day 03

I beat the alarm set for 5.30am and got up at 5.00am instead. Opening the tent door showed the first faint rays of the morning sun and I woke the others up. Getting up and we walked about 20m downhill where there was the tip of Lakegala and set up our cameras and waited for the Sun to make his royal entrance. We saw the paddy fields of Meemure below us and people had already come out of their houses looking up and waving at us. Nava mama had his binocular with him and we could clearly see the people and houses below.

All of a sudden, the sun made his appearance, the reddish orange fiery ball coming out of the sky warming the whole area. We took pics and the villagers below took out their mirrors and reflected them against the sunlight so that we can see. Nearby mountains were lit up instantly, we saw Gala Muduna, Aththala Mattuwa, Andirigala, Bambaragala, Rahana Ketu Pahana, Wannimana, Uda Wannimana, Kalu Kele, Thunnisgala aka Gombani (The highest point in Knuckles Mountain Range) and the Riverston side. There are plenty of other mountains but their names are beyond me. Not to worry, Nava mama have mentioned all that in the videos I’ve posted.

I embraced the moment with both hands and wanted to shout from the top of my voice but managed to restrain myself just in time. In the meantime, Kalu malli, Chanaka, Mihindu and Dodam were busily making morning tea and shouted us to join them. It tasted yummy coz Nava mama had packed pieces of very tasty jiggery. Wow, what a bed tea it turned out to be. After that, we started boiling water for the noodles and Nava mama went deep into the jungle and found a solid tree trunk for us to tie the makeshift white flag made out of a sarong.

He came out with not only the tree trunk, but also a bunch of Karapincha leaves. We added few leaves to the boiling noodles to add flavor and once finished served them onto our aricanut leave plates in equal portions. Then opened the baked bean can and poured it into the pan and once it came to boiling temperature, poured it over the noodles. Using own-made folks we ate the whole plate in a few mouthfuls and drank our precious water. Chanaka’s sensible handling of water kept us enough to last the whole journey. Just imaging 6 people using only 16 liters of water for nearly 24hrs, simply unbelievable.

Good Morning!

The fiery ball is slowly coming out of hiding

Look at the colors

The closest I could get without burning myself

The tip of Lakegala is just below

Still bleary-eyed Nava mama

Hiya!

The moon was on the other end

Towards Corbet’s Gap

Thunnisgala in the distance. See the shadow of Lakegala?

The drop towards Meemure

Nobody’s in

They’re busily making tea

Ever working Kalu Malli getting ready to make tea for us

Mihindu too joined the cooking

What does this remind you of? “Kome Pittu”

Nearly ready

We added freshly plucked Karapincha for flavor

Something I’d never had

Trying hard to boil it in the same container but in the end we had to serve the noodles to our Puwak Plates and boil it in the pan

Chanaka too joined the party

Nava mama with a bunch of Karapincha leaves

Serving the noodles to our Puwak Kola plates

What a feast!

Hungry

Chanaka digging in

Nava mama couldn’t play around with folks

Kalu Malli using a Puwak Kola spoon

The Cricket on Chanaka’s T-shirt, could it be the one who came out last night?

Macro

Chanaka waving his T-shirt at the villagers

Bovitiya

Very rare flower – Binara

Nava mama busily erecting the flag

Nava mama finally did it

Unknown one for us

Nava mama checking if the flag would hold

The champion of Meemure on top of the Hallmark

Chanaka improvised it like a Yacht

Mamai – Benai

I could’ve spent the rest of life looking at this breath-taking view

Majestic view towards Thunnisgala, ths height of the Lakegala Shadow slowly decreasing

Paddyfields of Meemure up close

Nava mama resting on the top

Wow

Villagers kept flashing mirrors at us and we in kind responded

Cleared the campsite completely

The kitchen too was cleaned to the max. Not a scrap of paper was left behind

The team except Dodam… ready to go down… Gosh my legs already shaking

Going downhill

We folded the tents in record time and got everything packed. Put out the fire and covered our hearth with wet soil to make sure nothing will escape into the mana bushes. Packed our bags, now so much lighter and started our descend downhill along the same footpath that King Ravana had found for us. Kalu malli as usual led the way and had a tough time helping me cross certain areas. We came across gorgeous Binara plants full of royal purplish blue flowers, and a very rare medicinal plant called Maha Hadaya.

Helped by the mana bushes, we finally arrived where we’d left the rope tied between check points 4 and 3 and had some more water before launching into the space. Chanaka got to the 3rd point with no problem followed by Mihindu again getting blamed and laughed by others. Dodam had no problem either and I was practically shivering when it was my chance. I had to go, no choice whether I liked it or not. Nava mama sensing my discomfort took things to his control and held my while I grabbed the rope and slowly guided me to the point 3. I simply refused to look down until my legs touched the safety of where the others waiting. When I reached, I hugged the rocky wall and started to relax my superfast heart rate.

Kalu malli came down with the rope and we had the two most difficult stretches ahead us and dropped the rope downhill. Chanaka, Mihindu and Dodam took the rope and went to point 2 and Nava mama guided me slowly downhill. There was one place where I lost footing and thankfully he was there holding onto me. Once he had to make me sit on his head as I found it difficult to support myself, gosh, narrow escape those are. Finally I was at point 2 and same intense procedure took me and the rest of the team to point 1 and the beginning of the rocky surface. I couldn’t help laughing like a madman. Everybody patted everyone else on the back for a job well done and I felt proud of my team who did more than I expected to make it a success and a memorable one.

We drank more water coz the downhill journey was gonna be a walk in the park. However, my legs wouldn’t listen to what my mind says, they kept going at their own pace and own way while I tried to balance my lower body with the upper body. Couple times I fell adding more bruises to the existing ones but didn’t mind them one bit. They were all a part of the mega project and it was such a trivial obstacle compared to the greater achievement. We opened a packet of lemon puff and ate it in seconds followed by more water.

It took us about another hour of maneuvering through thorn bushes and loose rocks to get to the base pool. We got rid of our bags and threw our clothes away and jumped into the water. My whole body was smarted from ice cold water where there were dozens of bruises yet I didn’t mind it for a second. Having a proper bath after 24hrs is something to rejoice. Kalu malli still refused to jump in water coz he started boiling water to make some tea and we opened two more biscuit packets in celebration. What strength of pillars they were to us.

After about half hour waiting, we started our journey back to Meemure. We walked as fast as our legs would permit and made very good time and reached the Bo Maluwa by 2.00pm. Dodam, Mihindu, Chanaka and finally Kalu malli went for a dip in the Meemure Oya while Nava mama and I waited for them. A group of boys who had tried to climb to the top but failed were there and they were very surprised to see us in one piece. They’d seen our torch flashes previous nights and we could see the white dot of our flag flying in the wind.

I looked at Lakegala and thanked her for being so hospitable and keeping us safe. Finally after 360 days of waiting, my dream came true thanks to Nava mama and the crew. It was a blissful experience and the most difficult hike in my life to date. The rest of the gang joined us after their dip and we walked back towards Mee Tree where Nava mama’s son was waiting with the tuk-tuk. I’d never been so pleased to see a tuk-tuk in my life and we reached home around 3.00pm. After a half hour bath under the shower, washing away all the grime as much as I could, I was ready for a feast.

The rest of the evening was all reserved for celebration and reflection. We kept sharing our experiences, reliving those scary moments but now they were scenes of fun, watching the videos I shot and looking at the pics. It was so amazing.

I wanted to walk to Thangappuwa from Corbet’s Gap and decided to take the van in the morning and get down at Corbet’s Gap and walk the 4km-jeep track. After dinner and many deliberations, we finally went to sleep around 9.00pm and slept like logs.

The Video Journey to Lakegala

This has nearly 75mins of video (14 short videos) and hope you enjoy it as much as the report.

Kalu malli with the machete

Here’s our flag being twisted by the wind

Breath-taking view all around

The team coming down

Kudalu Flower

“Binara Malee Ekka Enna – Binara Mahe Meda”

Maha Hadaya – A very rare medicinal plant

“How to get down?” – The big guns doing the planning

Can’t go down

Not seen them anywhere before

Mana bushes were the hero of the day

Clouds were coming thick and fast and it rained in the evening letting us know that we were given a special window to do this hike

Just look at the color

Mihindu had overcome most of his phobia by now

They can stay like this forever

Don’t look down

Ready to go

I tried to delay the agony as long as possible by taking pics this and that

“Dodam, watch it. Don’t look down”

I nearly fainted

We couldn’t thank enough for whoever had put this here

Kalu malli coming down using a double knot

Ready to climb the rest of it

The most difficult bit, Chanak not scared one bit

Zoomed in

Difficult to capture amid all these clouds

Chanaka was the first to go down followed by Dodam and Mihindu

Gotta be very careful not to get stuck in the crevice

You can’t imagine what we went through

These mountains were a nice distraction from our sheer agony

They were to first to reach the safety

Kalu malli had a lot of responsibilities

Thunnisgala, final glimpses

He kept snapping at everything, but just look at the depth

Still some more to come

Will he ever stop?

Coming down headlong

Finally everyone safely at the base of the rock, yet so far to go. We enjoyed the lemon puff with plenty of water

I couldn’t believe we climbed up and down along this

Hi sweetie, I’m back in one piece

Could belong to a Sambar Deer

This was huge, but when it rains it must make a gigantic waterfall

Had to come practically crawling down

Finally at the base pool, but Kalu malli won’t have a break. He made tea for us after all the climbing

Not a yard of tea

He kept bathing

Chanaka and Mihindu relaxing

This must be a dead bull’s

The team, the guys in the back were there at the canal taking pics

Enjoying the cool water

Look at Mihindu’s smile

Towards Gala Muduna

I can’t resist taking pics of this lush green

Remember him? This is Ekanayake Mama who climbed the Lakegala in his 80s

I couldn’t be happier looking at her from Bo Maluwa

Nava mama showing and boasting to one of his fellow mates

Pinky was waiting to welcome us back

Emerald Dove on the hunt

Dinky was wondering where we had been

Hungry beyond words

Day 04

We got up at 4.30am still bleary eyed and got ready to leave. I heard the household comes alive as Nava mama’s wife too was going in the van to Hunnasgiriya to take medicine. We had our bed tea and bid farewell to Nava mama and came to the road waiting for the van. It came around 5.35am and we got seats and I was hoping to get some shut eye till we reached Corbet’s Gap. However all that shattered when the van got filled with wave after wave of people and the Isuzu company must be very proud of themselves for making such tough vehicles that last under harsh conditions like these.

I was squashed between two people, then three and four until I was forced to get up and go to the footboard. It was so tough going on the footboard too as my arms and legs were on fire. I remembered the time when we loved going on the footboards in the buses. How things change over time? It was the longest ride in my life as I felt the Corbet’s Gap kept going away from us. Finally after about an hour, which felt like a year in hell, we reached the magnificent Corbet’s Gap when the sun was appearing over Dumbara Mountains.

Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa

We didn’t waste time hanging around and immediately set off. There are two hotels (you can see them when you’re coming towards Meemure in the distance) and other than that nothing else related to human activities. If you’ve been to Meemure before, you might’ve seen a building just off the Corbet’s Gap in ruins. It used to belong to a wealthy businessman who dealt in Enasal (Cardamom) but when the ban came, it was abandoned.

The jeep track from Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa is also a result of cardamom business but now it’s pretty much not in use other than hikers like us. The track is in good shape except for the first 500-600m. It’s wider than the Meemure Road and even a normal vehicle (without 4WD) can maneuver easily, but would be tricky for a car. However leeches were there in numbers and bit us at every opportunity. There were plenty of birds and butterflies but too fast for our lenses. However, we came across a jungle fowl prowling along the road hunting for breakfast.

There was a Devalaya about 1.5km away from Thangappuwa with a concrete bridge. We saw signs of Acacia plant either side of the road. Knuckles Mountains were towering over Thangappuwa and separating Meemure from it. We walked slow but steady and reached the village in about 2hrs. Just before the village at the side of the road is the cemetery of Thangappuwa. They’d even used blocks of solid rocks to cover the graves; I guess the wild boars might be digging them.

The village has a mixed population of Sinhalese and Tamils, mainly due to the tea estates. We came to a shop hoping for some breakfast but they don’t do that there. Dodam improvised by buying a packet of cream crackers and Umbalakada Sambol and making cracking sandwiches. Thankfully the lady at the shop offered to make some plain tea after listening to our narration of the past 3 days. They knew Nava mama (well who doesn’t?) and told us the path to Alugallena runs from Thangappuwa and easily accessible.

Fortunately for us, there was a bus going all the way to Kandy at 9.45am and we spent that time talking to this nice old couple. They were happy that we did so much walking coz in their time they had done their fair share of hiking too. The bus came on time and we got into and bidding farewell to them. Finally a seat to rest my knackered bones and I slept on and off till we reached Kandy.

From Kandy we headed to Colombo, amid hot and humid air hitting us in full force.

Well, well, well, that’s it then. Finally after so long I managed to do my dream hike and took nearly that long to bring this across to you. Hope you enjoyed it and just take the notes and advice given seriously.

This is Sri signing off for now and will see you again with another of my fairy tale.

Until then, take care and keep travelling…

Corbet’s Gap Junction, take the left jeep track

The first bit was not in good condition but got better afterwards

Through the cardamom trees

Here’s the cardamom flower

A Cardamom Seed

Could’ve taken millions of these but leeches made it so difficult

Road is still very bad

More like Horton Plains

One of the two hotels along the slope

These are a very common sight

Dumbara Mountains

Very beautiful

Now the track is in a better condition

More of them

Endless supply of pic taking opportunities

The road to the infinity

Here I am

The colors are awesome

Leeches were there in numbers

Wow

Here’s the fella, had to zoom in all the way

Towards Thangappuwa

Twins and a tiny fella feeding on one

Another uncommon one

The Devalaya by the road

The bunch of yellowies

The road is very broad, than even Meemure’s

I was wondering if it was true they said only 4km

Beautiful colors but was too high

They don’t escape me that easily

Here’s the cemetery along the road, see they have used rocks to cover the grave

Village is just round the corner

She was so sweet

The Budu Medura

Our breakfast

Here’s Thangappuwa

He was by the shop

Too far away to go and pluck

The road towards Rangala

The path to Alugallena is somewhere in the middle of the pic

Nava Mama’s Business Card…

Enjoy the collection of Panos here:

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 3

Knuckles which named Dumbara forest is the first forest of Sri Lanka. We can introduce this forest bio diversity, weather and high geological variety, value of water source, value of natural beauty, value of ancient & prehistoric like broad space. This second-to-none forest spreads than 21000 hectares in Matale & kandy and the it is governed by wild life preservation department. Ilukkumbura for Matale & the Deanston for Kandy are preserving the Dumbara forest.
The Heighest Mountain of this forest is the “Gombaniya” mountain and it is about 6248 ft high. The second highest one is “Knuckles” mountain range and rests are orderly Kirigalpoththa, Aliya wetuna ela, Dumbanagala, Kalupahana, Selwakanda, Yakunge gala & Dothalugala.

This time we select the second youngest Knuckles mountain range. The way Theldeniya, Rangala, Thangappuwa across Kandy is used as entrance for that. Thangappuwa is a small colony who lived in estate laborers. 50 families are lived in this village. Plucking tea leaves, growing vegetables, plucking cardamom and in addition to that guiding for tourists are the ways of living in the people who lived there.

The map of Knuckles

At the Teldeniya stand

Just got down at Rangala town

Rural way from Rangala to Thangappuwa

Initiating for new destination

It was about 6.30 am which started from Kurunegala at 4.00 am. If there are two busses available from Theldeniya to Thangappuwa, they are not running yet a after the New Year season. There for we got to Rangala by bus and from that to Thangappuwa get a trishaw. The way Rangala to Thangappuwa is very feeble and it is about 7 km long.

Ganesh was joined with us at Thangappuwa and he was our guide. We took our breakfast from Ganeshs’ home and started journey again at about 9.30 am along the way across village and then entered to tea estate. Now the way goes forward with a high ascent.

Some advices with describing the way from Ganesh

Enter to the tea estate

View of art…

Moment which want some rest

We entered to the top of the mountain after a hard journey and from that tea estate was end and from that the Knuckles. We could see the way which we should go very clearly because of this way is a tourist paradise.

We could see the Knuckles at first time when entered to open area after a tiered journey about 2 hours. And also we had got an idea about “Alu gallena” which was destination for that day.

At the first scene of the Knuckles which stands like a hulk

Red star- The destination of the 1st day(අළු ගල්ලෙන) Black star- The highest place of the knuckles range. (This is the destination of 2nd day)

It’s a clear foot path

Just click along the way

Again the way was across the jungle and bleeders were struck us continuously. The way which had pool, small hills had fallen bottom of the Knuckles parallel. That were spread small bamboo trees & cardamom. And also we could scene the horn lizard which endemic to Dumbara forest.

It’s a natural beauty

At the end of his life.

The 1st visitor which welcomed us… (Horn Lizard)

What an amazing

After a long tired journey about 15km we entered to “Alugal lena” at about 3.00 pm. This was another beautiful night in Dumbara forest with my three friends. We went asleep early with having dinner because we have rural journey than this tomorrow.

Finding a rare angle

Remarkable difference

Our lodge of 1st night. (අළු ගල්ලෙන)

Our nice gang

It helps us to prevent from acrimonious cold and attacks of insects.

The 1st day bonfire

The second day was come to “Dumbara forest” with the sun beams of top of Knuckles. Feeling with that cold we prepared our breakfast and lunch. After that we came about 7km long which the way we had come earlier.

Woowww… cool morning

These 2 guys’ also good chefs.

Mmmm… bed tea is ready

Start up with a new fresh & power

Eyes of leeches were look at us very impressively because of the rain which fell earlier evening.

Then the way was out which the way we came and it fell ahead with an ascent. We could reach to the top of the mountain which went forward with misty weather & the rain drops after about four hours hard journey.

Come forward along the earlier way

Greenland of Knuckles

Always she covered her face by mist.

Come closer to the destination.

Closer to 1st peak.

This guy is our water bank…

It’s a paradise of flowers

Inheritors of the kingdom…

Rain is coming soon…

Great guidance

Passing the 1st peak

The way was very tough

It was a fresh experience for us to feel this under a misty weather condition. We started again looking for place which we camping 2nd night, after 1 hour which had the lunch and small rest with feeling the beauty of Dumbara forest.

Reaching beauteous destination after a tough Journey

Mist clasping the mountain

The victorious moment

Deep in to the Knuckles range…

The tiny village of Bambarella

The 3rd peak of Knuckles.

Climate is changed very quickly

Next target “ගොම්බානිය”

Feeling happy.

If we entered to that place at about 6.00 pm, the random rain was completely destroyed our all wishes. Ganesh expressed our all wishes. He expressed his tight protest for stay their without a bonfire. If we spent at about one hour the weather condition was not good. So he decided to left again to Thangappuwa with our protest.

If there was no any solution we started journey again with the help of touch light through the dark and the mist.

Bio-diversity

Come back

Just click

Just like a painting

She covered her face quickly…

With the intention of camping 2nd day. (Rain is destroyed our hopes)

Too tired after long hike.

This dangerous journey was too hard because of bleeders. The water level of pools was high some height and also the wounds which occurs due to slippery were increased the pain too much.

We could reach to Thangappuwa at about 9.30 pm because of the ceaseless walk and we got tired very much. So we could spend our second night at Ganeshs’ house unavoidably. Treatments and the warm full responses of his family and neighbors were carried us freshness. That was a great experience for us really because we were not spend a night at a tiny cottage of tamil people earlier. Every hospitality which were given by Ganesh to us were noted as unforgettably forever on a page of my memory book in my trekking life .We left from Ganeshs’ house with saying goodbye the day after that day with having breakfast by the only bus which went from Thangappuwa to Kandy.

It’s a distinct morning in our lives… (At Ganeshs’ home)

It’s a very precious moment for me.

Bathing dew in the morning.

Earnestly…

Our lodge at last night.

Feeling his own freedom.

Tiny cottage at Thangappuwa

Just click

Buds for waiting blossom

This also a buddy waiting for blossom

Colorful

The moment which leaving from Ganeshs’ family…

This forest should be preserve for future generation really. Three rivers and streams are fallen down through this forest with full fill 30% of water amount by Mahaweli River and the no. of flora and fauna species are found out from this forest.

It’s very necessary to preserve all these things for the every born, unborn one in new generation. We are the members of that sacred activity. We said goodbye to queen Knuckles with the intention of that.

Thank you very much for read my report.

How can I start? As you may aware Sri Pada and Knuckles are my favourite places on earth. I used to visit them at least 2-3 times per year. If I talk about knuckles it’s a vast area covering more than 30 mountains, more than 20 isolated villages, so many waterfalls and caves large variety of flora& fauna etc. Importantly in this range you can find waterfalls cascading over caves. One example is Sera Ella in Puwakpitiya area. But out of that type The Most Beautiful, Most isolated, Most difficult to Access and undoubtedly queen of all waterfalls in knuckles area is The Duwili Ella in Kalupahana. It’s situated almost middle of knuckles range and to reach it by using any path you have to walk in the thick jungle for at least 15 kms or more. Some of the accessible routes to this hidden beauty are via Bambarella (via Enasal Wadi), Ranamure, Meemure, Rambukoluwa, Walpolamulla etc. After seeing many reports, discussions and videos about this gorgeous waterfall I was dreaming to visit it and spend a night in the cave. Although the path through Walpolamulla was said to be harder than other routes I was willing to choose that path as I desperately wanted to visit that isolated village Walpolamulla and to spend a night there too .The name itself gave me a strange feeling

Our Target..Our dream..Our Mission Queen of Knuckles waterfalls. Famous Duwili Ella . Cave is in the middle part.

I was dreaming for this more than a year or so. Finally dream came true on 24/04/2014

Beautiful Walpolamulla . This was in my dreams too. Achieved it 23/04/2014

But I had heard, read and understood that the successive rate of reaching Duwili Ella ( Caved one ) by using Atanwala-walpolamulla road is very low due to the distance you have to walk is too long and you have to pass many water streams . But I was not in a mode to give up. From Last year I had been planning to do this but abounded due to bad weather, less no of persons, lack of time etc etc. But in the meantime I read all the reports about this journey at least 10 times each in order to draft a master plan. Most of all Malaka’s Map was the recourse article I referred most.

Malaka333 s Magical map was very important for Me ( Taken from Malaka’s Report )

Therefore I could understand the challenges, risks and mistakes of a hiker who use this route. This is what I understood about Attanwala-Walpolamulla Route

1. Since the distance from Pitawala ( last place you could go with any transport mode ) to Duwili falls is 16-17kms you should start at least from Walpolamulla(4 km from Attanwala)
2. Even from walpolamulla you should leave before 6.00 a.m.( before the first rays of sun reach earth )
3. You shouldn’t waste time on searching for lower falls ( You can search them in the return journey )
4. Not necessary to take the tent as the shelter in walpolamulla and the cave is so far good
5. Shouldn’t waste time on cooking or bathing
6. Team shouldn’t be large (my opinion – 5 is ideal) and they must be strong enough to take any challenge. Previous hiking experience is a MUST
7. Backpacks shouldn’t be too heavy (you should bring less cloths, light dry food, no tent etc.)
8. And Most of all you need a bit of luck. So doing rituals (according to your belief) will be a great relief to your mind. As you tend to think there’s someone always protect you in this dangerous terrain.

After waiting for years I decided last that “I am going to do this”. According to a Sri’s comment on a report of me it was my “Most wanted journey this year “.So I called Wasantha and arranged a guide and accommodation .Then came the difficult part .Finding hiking partners. All the lakdasun members whom I had traveled with were busy as those were week days. I didn’t pick my work mates too as I hadn’t traveled with them often although they were free. Then I remembered my loyal heroes whom I knew them for more than 20 years or so. And they have done tough hikes with me including knuckles ( Prince – Meemure & Chiran – Riverston, Manigala). Since they happily agreed to join me I drafted my plan after taking the above facts to mind and executed smoothly.

23rd April ( Initiation of the process with the tight schedule )

Our objective was to reach Walpolamulla before 6.00 p.m. and stay the night there. As we knew with the public transport it was difficult to achieve target, we chose bikes. Bike plus Hike made us interesting. So We left our homes around 5.30 a.m. pumped petrol full tank and checked air from Koswatta . Me and Chiran were traveling in my Bike and Prince in his own. The challenge we faced was due to an engine repair in prince’s bike he couldn’t exceed the speed limit of 45km/h and he had to stop for 10-15 minutes in every 40 kms. With this moderate speed we reached Kandy around 10.00 a.m.( We stopped for breakfast at Pilimathalawa ).Then we visited Tooth relic to get the blessings for our risky journey and started going towards Mathale at 11.00 a.m..Since the road constructions were going on it was a slow ride. We purchased many items from food city at Mathale and re- started our journey around 1.00p.m.( we had to stop for some while due to heavy rain ). On the way to Pitawala we came across so many attractions such as Bambarakiri ella, Riverston Peaks,Pitawla Pathana but skipped those lovely places because we wanted our main target to be achieved i.e. WALPOLAMULLA. We were able to reach Pitawala around 2.45 p.m.

My Two Heroes of the journey Prince-front ,Chiran – Back (Taken at Nittambuwa )

Sacred Temple of Tooth

When We Go to Peak Wilderness – We Get the blessing of Holly Foot Print When we go to Knuckles- We get the blessing of Holly Tooth Relic ( Dalada Samidu Pihitai !)

On the way to riverston

We had to Check for our slow and steady Rider – Prince

Manigala Seen to Pitawala Pathana

Attanwala Paddy fields

Shop at Pitawala where we had light lunch and did the final part of shopping(Rice, Eggs, some biscuits )

We went to Wasantha’s Place and parked our bikes in his garden. Although he wasn’t there he had given instructions his wife and our guide ( Ekanayaka Mama ) of our arrival. Ekanayaka mama also came to visit us from Attanwala as we were late. So after re arranging our stuff we left wasantha’s place at 3.30 p.m. and started walking towards Ekanayaka Mama’s home at Attanwala.

Beautiful Attanwala

Ancient warriors were in sleepy mode as giant mountains

Thelgamu oya

Attanwala temple close to Mama’s House

After walking nearly 1.5 kms from Pitawala, we reached Ekanayaka Mama’s home around 4.15 p.m. Mama went inside to prepare his bag and other stuff. I was in a hurry as I didn’t have clear idea of the path to walpolamulla but mama was not. He told us to rest a bit and ordered his daughter in law to make tea for us. So we did our final repacking of the day and most importantly applying Alum. From the very beginning I knew “The leach factor” would really affect Prince. In any other day I would have laughed at prince’s Leach Phobia but this time was not. I took it very seriously and previous day I had bought some fresh Alum from Pettah which consumed me nearly 2 hrs. But it was worth wasting time because we saved lots of time due to that. For my surprise in this kingdom of leaches , Prince never complained a single word about leaches and concentrated purely on the hike. That was another Key factor of our success. Finally we left Ekanayaka Mama’s Place at 4.45 p.m. and walked towards Walpolamulla

Ekanayaka Mama’s Home.. Getting ready for the “Mission Impossible”

First Hurdle….. We successfully crossed many hurdles in our journey

Road signs ( They were there till the Duwili falls )

Manigala

Perfect guiding. After this you have to turn right to get in to Walpolamulla

Place where we did rituals and rested for a while…Why not have some fun too

Other side of Manigala. After some while we began to descend

Oh God …This is heaven ( Our Second favourite place on the trip)

See their joy. This was early a tank Made by Yakka Gothra

Finally a Group photo PHOTO : CHIRAN

Our destination on Day one. We Came Sharp at 6.00 p.m. PHOTO : CHIRAN

Let Me explain about this place and how we execute our rest of the plan.

This is the only house in the village. There used to be six seven families in the village but now reduced to one old person. He had also gone to one of his sons home at Mathale. This house contains two small rooms , kitchen and a tiny passage as a store room. First thing we did was collecting some fire wood. While Me and prince were doing that Mama and Chiran went to nearby stream ( 200 m away from house ) to take some water for cooking and drinking purpose. We had to hurry up as it started raining .We had planned Rice and curries for 23rd night, 24th Breakfast and lunch as we could prepare those from this house without much difficulty.(If we prepared them in the middle of the jungle much time would have spent and things to carry would have been so heavy.)In other words in this Whole journey we did all the cooking being in a resting place. i.e. House or cave

We lighted some candles and switched on our torches ( We carried 4 including two head torches ) and prepared tea(nest cafe ) then prepared our dinner. One advantage was there were some pots, pans in the kitchen also a well made Hearth (LIPA) . Adding to that we had the portable gas cooker of Prasanna .So why not have the benefit of it. We made rice and 3 curries and a boiled egg for Prince. After cooking we wanted to have some wash but it was around 7.30 and didn’t want to take a risk by going to the stream as it was fully dark. Adding to that it was thundering and raining. So we used the conditions and bathe under the rain like small children which was barely enough to wash away our tiredness. Sometimes we used the water came out from the roof as a Peella. However Prince(local sudda ) and Mama did not join our rain dance . We used rain water for washing pans, Spoons too. After putting new cloths we had our dinner and had a chat for a while. We put some fire wood to the hearth as it was difficult to put a campfire outside due to rain .Mama was singing Kawi not about knuckles but about his lovely wife who had passed away two years ago. He had beautiful memories about their young age and her demise seemed to have affected him a lot. Around 10.00 p.m. we went to sleep memorizing our beautiful journey of the day and entering the next day plan to our inner minds.

Happy cooking

Rice, Dhal Curry, Fried Salmon , Soya Meat and Boiled egg ,Yummmm. What else you need